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OREGON AS IT I 



Issued by the Oregon State Board of Immigration, 



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FOB THE USE AND INFORMATION OF IMMIGRANTS. 



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Chas. H. Dodd, 
Win. N. Ladue. 
II. W. Corbett, 
H. B. Miller, - 
L. B. Cox, 



Pres/t, Portland 

Vice Pres't, Salem 

Portland 

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MINING IN EASTERN OREGON. 



After the greater portion of this edition of " Oregon As It Is," was on the press, a revival 
of mining interests, consequent upon the discovery of new and rich fields occurred, in Eastern 
Oregon. 'J he Portland Bo* rd of Trade commissioned Gen. T. R. Tannatt, civil and mining en- 
gineer, in the employ of the O. R. & N. Co., to visit the new fields, Pine Creek; with the object 
of mapping out a roadway to these points, and making an examination of the mines in' a gen- 
eral way. From his report we make the following excerpts : 

We now enter upon a mineral belt, with ample evidences of former placer mining at hand con- 
tinuing to increase as we approach the mining district known as Hogham, in which are located 
the Summit, Knight, Rockafellow, Lily White and other gold bearing quartz lodes— examined 
and samples are before you. This, the Hogham district, is an old mining camp, the Summit 
lode having been continuously and successfully worked for seven years, is now bonded for 
$50,000. Water is abundant, and ores easy of transportation to mills, that may be located upon 
numerous streams in close proximity. The snowfall in the locality must be large, yet the 
young timber, aspens, willows, etc., show none of the evidences of drifting snows. The line 
will during winter months be of the same character as to maintenance as what is known as 
Mea cham's road over Blue mountains. 

Pine Valley Mines. 

It is not anticipated that this report will dwell upon the examination of any particular lode 
or opening. Forty-nine openings were visited and samples from a large number are before you. 
The district near Cornucopia, on the slope of Granite peaks toward Pine creek are not to be con- 
founded in questions of location , formation, ease of approach and character of ores with those in 
what may be termed " District of the Eagle creeks," situated south and west of the peaks. 

The mines or lodes (more properly quartz ledges in granite,) project through the granite in 
fines nearly parallel to base of mountains, and are clearly visible to the naked eye at a distance. 
Projecting fr<>m the granite at different altitudes all dip toward the iron dykes behind and above 
them from thirty-five to forty-three degrees from horizontal planes. In what is termed the 
" basin" the duration of the gold bearing ledges must be measured by their distance from the 
dykes, toward which they trend and which stand above them, apparently unaffected by the 
elements. 

It cannot be disputed that the peculiar position of these ledges and their great altitude are 
serious questions affecting their working and longevity. 

If the mineral belt was confined to the locality thus far described, the measure of develop - 
ment would not, in my judgment, give that certainty of a future required by purpose of visit. 

This must be an individual opinion, in view of the fact that some three or four openings have 
been bonded, conditional upon future developments, for prices that do not rule in a new mining 
camp. 

Leaving the Granite peaks and mines on the right and ascending Elk creek, one finds, to 
his leftj a different formation, with encouraging mining development embraced in undisturbed 
formations. Passing over the divide separating the waters of Pine creek from the Eagle and 
other creeks, a new field of strong character is before us. 

The openings examined give promies of certainty, and are well situated as to working, etc. 
The lodes exposed are more truly mineral in their character than those of Granite peaks, and 
already sufficient in number to insure a large and permanent camp. The limestone in question 
has been hauled to Silver City and Boise, as well as used in vicinity for smelting. 

As yet nothing has been done in sinking shafts, etc., upon which to predicate the future 
value of any one opening. As a whole the district to which your attention has been called 
presents more of value than any coming under my observation with so little development. 
That there is sufficient to cause an extensive and thorough working the Coming season there is 
no doubt. 

Aside from the mines visited at the time by Gen. Tannatt, there are many and very valua- 
ble mining interests in that district of country A few miles south of Baker City there is a 
number of mining districts. The Virtue mine situated eight miles south-east of Baker City, 
free milling ore, will average about $30 per ton. The Granite creek district, about 40 miles from 
Baker City, and in almost a westerly direction of the mines, one of the most promising is the 
Cabellode, 3% feet wide, free milling, and will work »70 in gold and silver. Adjoining is the 
Minnie mine, owned by Loures & Flariety, free milling ore three feet wide, and will mill $80 
per ton, Next, the Buffalo, owned by Beaele Bros.; this mine has a tunnel of 130 feet, which 
Caps a good, permanent vein 30 inches wide, and will mill $75 per ton. Next, the Standard, 
owned by H. McCann; little developed, but very promising to be a good niine. The Maggie is 
of good size and considerable note. The Sun Set, the Sun Rise, the Monumental, the Morning 
Glory, and within an area of ten miles square, there is a perfect network of ledges. All these 
lodes are being worked by arastras, and pay well for that slow process of working. 

These county limits do not mark the boundaries of the gold and silver bearing country, in 
what we call Eastern Oregon. Within the area of Union, Grant, Crook and Wasco counties, the 
precious metals are found ; plentiful at certain localities, and mining is carried on with more 
or less activity. It would be impossible in our cover space, to give a detailed account of these 
interests. We can only make the above reference to them, and say, that the region is large, 
the yield satisfactory, the field open to all, and with the newer and more practical machinery 
and appliances for working the mines, and extracting the metal, the business will be in the im- 
mediate future, a chief one in the Eastern part of the State, giving profitable employment to 
thousands of people, furnishiner a good local market for all farm products, and in every way 
up-building and making prosperous these communities and finally the State. 



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OREGON AS IT IS. 

Published for Gratuitous Distribution 
BY THE 

State Board of Immigration. 



A brief description of the State, containing accurate and ' 
trustworthy information for those seeking new homes in a 
mild and healthful climate, or the best fields for investment 
of capital. 



PORTLAND, NOV., 1885. 



Fssi 

C>6«f 




FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE, OREGON CITY. 



PREFACE. 

The Secretary of the Board has, in the preparation of this volume' 
availed himself of every means within his reach to show the advantages of 
this great and growing state, but in it all "stuck to his text," "Oregon as it 
is," giving facts that can be substantiated at a moments notice. 

To all wishing to live in a mild and healthy climate, and enjoy the 
pleasures and blessings which come from the possession of good society, 
schools, churches and kindred advantages, a cordial welcome is extended. 



Jokns Hopkin's tfniv. Lilfc 
Gift, 






o^-jo 



OREGON AS IT IS. 



Naturally enough, men will think well and write well of their own coun- 
try and their chosen home; and it is just as natural, that when a stranger 
to Oregon takes up this little book, his first thought, is about the degree 
of allowance to be made for the statements set forth. But this pamphlet 
is designed, as its title intimates, to tell the truth about Oregon. It is in 
no sense a " boom" edition, save as easily substantiated facts and truth, 
serve to advance the interests of Oregon. It has been published to meet 
the wide-reaching demand for authenticated information about this State ; 
information that shall be full, right to the point, practical; that will convey 
to all who may desire a new home, or a location for some valuable indus- 
try here, a correct idea of the inducements which Oregon offers. There is 
nothing expedient or honest in over-wrought or highly colored statements 
regarding this, or any other State, as an immigration field. Oregon has 
nothing to lose, and all to gain, by a close, scrutinizing investigation of 
what she has to offer, in the way of climate, soil and general productions. 
The inducements offered, as well as the pre-eminent advantages set forth 
ought to be sufficient to influence the agriculturist, stock-raiser, the mer- 
chant, mechanic and capitalists toward our borders. 

Within the immense area of about 96,000 square miles, all desirability 
is held ; nearly every interest is embraced ; the agricultural factor is almost 
limitless, and for the investment of capital, and pluck, and energy, the field 
in Oregon is golden with opportunity. 

On farms the immigrant will find himself in a well peopled neighbor- 
hood, and within easy reach of all the comforts, conveniences, if not ele- 
gancies, of the most refined civilization. Volumes might be written on the 
State of Oregon, if we should speak of the thrift and enterprise of her 
towns and cities, as exhibited in the general and rapid growth of the State. 
The attractions of Oregon are just now exerting a powerful influence ovc 
those who are looking for new homes, and the best fields for the invest 
ment of capital. It is the Shiloh land of the intending immigrant; an im- 
pending land of promise ; the outpost of the Far West. Through her 
wonderful agricultural resources, as well as her natural and acquired ad- 
vantages for the prosecution of all kinds of industrial pursuits, her mines, 
gold, silver, copper, iron and coal, her vast timber fields and wide-reaching 
stretches of stock range,- T)regph has advanced to a position which is a 
matter of pride and satisfaction to berj citizens. 



4 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Having a Pacific Ocean coast line of about 300 miles as its western 
boundary, a width of 350 miles from east to west, 275 miles in extent from 
north to. south, Oregon embraces an area of 60,000,000 acres of land. 
It is a vast domain crowded with beautiful resources that an empire might 
well covet. It is a land of wonderful resources, for her valleys, both in 
extent and productiveness, are unmatched anywhere on the globe. 

In the proportions of production to population, Oregon stands at the front 
in wheat, oats, and barley, and in the aggregate of all grains and of all food. 
The yield of wheat in '84 equaled a production of more than sixteen hundred 
pounds for every inhabitant of the State. In this, as in other elements of 
human food, Oregon is almost without a parallel. The possibilities of the 
future in the development of her latent or undeveloped wealth, are simply 
incalculable ; almost beyond comprehension. 

The great results of the past have been accomplished by industry, econ- 
omy and enterprise, and while our people have looked to that which is 
measured by the word finance, they have not forgotten the social and do- 
mestic relations, or the moral and intellectual influences, all of which are 
evinced by the homes, the schools, churches and colleges found on every 
hand. 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. 

From the tens of thousands of questions asked of us by mail, the fol- 
lowing are here presented with their appropriate answers : 

How many classes of land are open to settlement ? 

Two ; government and railway. 

Is purchase money required in order to obtain government land ? 

Government lands are divided into four classes, Homestead, Pre-emption, Mineral and 
Timber Culture claims. The first and last named require no outlay of money except the small 
fee paid at the land office. The pre-emption claim requires purchase money. 

Explain the word Homestead ? 

The word homestead, as now applied in the United States, signifies a tract of land given 
away by the Government as a free gift forever, on the single condition that the person accept- 
ing the gift shall live upon the land and cultivate it, and make it his home for five years. Any 
citizen of the United States, who is the head of a family, or an unmarried person over the age 
of twenty-one years, is entitled to a homestead of 160 acres. Persons of foreign birth may avail 
themselves of the benefit of this law by declaring their intention to become citizens ; and this 
they can do immediately after their arrival in this country. 

The Land Office fees are from $16 to $22, which must be paid at the time of filing the applica- 
tion. Within six months after filing his application at the Land Office the settler must com- 
mence living upon and improving the land, and thereafter for five years he must make this 
tract his actual home. A soldier who served not less than ninety days in the army during the 
late rebellion is required to live on the land five years, less the time he served in the army. 
At the expiration of five years, or wihin two years thereafter, on making proof at the Land 
Office by two competent witnesses that he has complied with all the requirements of the law, 
and paying an additional fee of from $6 to $12, he will receive from the Government a complete 
and absolute title to the land. 

If at any time after six months residence the homestead settler should desire to get a full title 
to his land, he can do so by making proof of settlement and cultivation up to date, and paying 
the Government price of 1 25 or $2 50 per acre for the land, according to location— that is with- 
in or without the boundary lines of railroad grants. 

Homesteads, until the issuing of the patents, are free from taxation. 

What is the Pre-emption law ? 

Any person qualified to take a homestead is also entitled to 160 acres under the pre-emption 
law (but not at the same time). Within ninety days after settlement on the land he must file 
his application in the District Land Office where the land is located, Which will cost $3. But 
he must commence settlement before making his application. At any .time after six months 
residence, and up to thirty months after filing his application, the settler may pay for the land 
at*the rate of $1 25 or $2 50 an acre, according to location, and receive his patent from the 
United States. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 

What is meant by Timber Culture? 

Under this law a quarter section, 160 acres, is allowed the qualified man or woman, resident 
or non-resident, who pays $14 fees, and thereafter breaks or plows five acres the first year, culti- 
vates it the second year, and plants to forest trees, cuttings or seeds the third year; and begin- 
ning the second year breaks another five acres, and cultivates and plants the third and 
fourth years. When he gets his ten acres (the lawful area) planted, he keeps the trees culti- 
vated and in good growing condition for four years more, or eight years from date of his entry. 
If at that time he can show 6,750 healthy trees, he will be granted title on paying $4 Land Office 
fees. 

How many Land Offices are there in Oregon and where located? 

Five; they are located at Oregon City, Clackamas County, Oregon; Roseburg, * Douglas 
County, Oregon; Lakeview, Lake County, Oregon; The Dalles, Wasco County, Oregon; La 
Grande, Union County, Oregon. 

How much government land can one person take ? 

He can obtain 160 acres in each of the three classes; 480 acres in all. 

Can he obtain all these claims at once? 

By no means. 

Why? 

Because the conditions under which he acquires the Pre-emption and Homestead claims re- 
quire his actual settlement upon them, and it is of course impossible to live in more than one 
place at a time. 

How can a man obtain all of these claims in the most expeditous manner ? 

He may file applications for a Pre-emption and a Timber Culture tract at once, as the latter 
does not require actual residence; then after six months he may pay in full for his pre-emption 
and then immediately take and occupy a homestead. 

Can I get government land in the vicinity of the railway or towns in your State ? 

There has always been more or less misapprehension among immigrants regarding government 
lands in this State, the general idea being that there are millions of acres of such lands lying in 
the valleys, and all of it ready for the plow. This is an error. While it is true that there are some 
fine open rolling lands in Eastern Oregon, the millions of acres of Government land, open for 
settlement, lies in the Cascade and Coast Range of mountains, or along the Columbia and small 
valleys and is more or less heavily timbered. * Along the foothills there are some sections of 
government land denominated "brush land," and here and there in each quarter section a 
dozen or twenty acres of open land. This is true of the locality between Forest Grove and 
Astoria, on the Central grant (now forfeited); it is true of some portions of Columbia County, 
Clackamas County, Washington County and Linn County, in Western Oregon. In the Southern 
portion of the State, in the Rogue River and Umpqua Valleys, in the Counties of Jackson and 
Josephine. A part of this lies in the small valleys and along the streams. These tracts are not 
extensive, and a comparatively small proportion of the whole is available for immediate culti- 
vation. It is possible for the immigrant to find now and then an excellent location on govern- 
ment land in the localities named here, under this heading, but it is a mistake to say that ten 
thousand immigrants can be so fortunate. If he must have government land, the new-comer 
will have to take his share of heavy or light timbered land as is removed somewhat from the 
lines of transportation. These claims will be very valuable by and by.and for the present will, 
if properly looked after, provide a good home for the immigrant and his family. But that 
''properly looked after" means much patience and industry. It is best that the new-comer 
should realize|this truth from the start. Lands without timber will be found in Eastern Oregon. 
These are bunch grass lands, and along the Northern tier of Counties, Wasco, Umatilla, Mor- 
row, Gilliam and Union, suitable for diversified farming. In the Southeastern portion of 
the State or what is known as the Klamath Country, the government lands are specially 
adapted to stock raising. 

Is there plenty of railway land to be had ? 

Plenty of it; some fine tracts of railway land along the line of the Oregon and California 
road in the Willamette Valley and in Southern Oregon. In Eastern Oregon these lands are 
chiefly in the hands of the Northern Pacific Company. 

What is the expense of living compared with that in the East? 

Answering in a general way, the necessary living expenses in cities and towns, including 
servant hire, are about twenty per cent, greater than in the East. Of course the pro- 
ductions of Oregon, which are consumed at home, are as cheap as elsewhere. 

Hotel rates in the towns of the interior average $1 per day for transient customers. Board 
anddodging by the week, about $5 at the hotels; about $4.50 at private houses. 

House rents quite uniform. Good five-room houses, with some yard attached, can be had 
for from $6 to $20 per month. 

Farm hands command about $25 per month, by the year's hire; harvest hands, $1.75 to $2.50 
per day; house servants, about $20 per month. For mechanics, the average is probably $3 per 
day. For carpenters and shop hands, masons, $5. 

vtilch cows are worth about $30 each. Horses average $200 a span . 

As to the yield of Oregon productions, we take the report of the Government, actual figures 
furnished by growers, and the estimates made by farmers, generally Out of a dozen farmers 
interviewed, two have had less than 24 bushels of wheat to the acre this year, 1885; four had 32 
bushels and the others over 36 bushels to the acre. It is a common thing to have 38 and 40 and 
even 50 bushels of wheat to the acre. The Government makes the average nearly 25; oats, 45 
to 85 bushels to the acre. It is not an infrequent thing to have a yield of 85 to 90 bushels of 
oats to the acre in the Willamette Valley. Oats from 6 to 8 feet high are common in this State . 
A good deal of this grain weighs 50 pounds to the bushels. Wheat raised in this State, weighs 



OREGON AS IT IS. 

64 pounds to the bushel. Barley yields on an average 26 to 28 bushels to the acre. fptye 20 to 
28 bushels. Potatoes will average about 125 bushels, many farmers gather from|.200 to 350 
bushels. The growth of such things ^as squashes, pumpkins, turnips, sweet potatoes and the 
like is simply astonishing. Corn, in Southern Oregon where it is grown as a crop, yields 65 to 
75 bushels to the acre. The growh of the stalk is enormous ; 12 Jeet being a very common 
height. 

What is your climate ? 

Mild and equable, winter and summer. 

Is your State well watered |with running streams ? 

Yes 

Is there plenty of timber? 

Plenty of it in the mountains and foothills. 

On what terms can farms be rented, cash ? 

About $1.75 per acre for cultivated soil. 

What grain rent? 

One-third of crop. 

Have you free schools ? 

Yes. 

Amount per capita of public money ? 

$2.25 and $3. 

What do teachers get ? 

Males $35 to $80; females, $30 to $60. 

What minerals have you ? 

Gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, tin, zinc, cinnabar. 

What is your staple product ? 

Wheat. 

Hired help ? 

Male, $15 to $25 per month; female, $3.50 to $5 per week. 

Interest on money ? 

Eight per cent. 

Average price of wheat ? 

75 cents; oats, 30 cents. 

What is the cost of plowing ? 

^■l^^F'' T0l]iu S, 30 cents; harrowing, 30 cents; seeding, 1% bushels to acre; tax on culti- 
vated land, from 18 to 30 mills. 
Do you summer fallow ? 
Yes. 

Average depth of plowing? 
Six inches. 
Do you subsoil ? 
Not generally. 

Unavoidable losses on account of weather f 
Very slight. 
Amount of hay per acre ? 

Sst of dairy stock ? t0nS; timothy ' two or three ton ' ' cost of cutting, 50 cents per acre. 

Common, $25 to $40. 

Cost of shearing sheep ? 

Seven cents per head. 

Does sheep industry pay f 

Yes. 

What herds most profitable for wool ? 

Merino and Leicester. 

For mutton ? 

Southdowns. 

Average- weight of fleece? 

Six pounds. 

Price of wool? 

15 to 25 cents. 

Method of wintering? 

Mostly grass. 



POPULATION OF OREGON. 

The present population of the State is about 300,000. The vote in 
the fall of '84, was 53,676. The usual estimate of five persons to a voter 
would give about 270,000. It will be conceded, that during the year, the 
accessions to our population have approximated 20,000 persons. 



OREGON AS IT IS. / 

TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. 

The prosperity and development of the State is essentially dependent 
upon the means of transportation. The interior railway facilities of Ore- 
gon are already extensive, and are to be multiplied in the immediate future. 
She is amply provided with exterior railway facilities ; few portions of the 
common country being more accessible, either by rail or by water. The 
Oregon and California railway Company operate a line reaching from Port- 
land to the southern border of the State. Two transcontinental lines — 
the Union Pacific and Oregon Short Line, and the Northern Pacific, — 
bring the traveler to our commercial metropolis. A regular line of steam- 
ships run every four days between San Francisco and Portland. 

Once in Portland, the immigrant will find rail and river communication 
with all parts of the State and the Pacific Northwest. A dozen lines of 
travel radiate from Portland to all portions of the State. 

WATERWAYS. 

In giving the facilities in this State for transportation, our rivers must 
have special mention ; water competition being of great importance. The 
Columbia forms the northern boundary of the State, and, for a distance of 
more than 200 miles, is a means of travel and transportation; and almost 
uninterruptedly so. Upon its bosom ships and steamers navigate at all 
seasons, transporting the products of the State to foreign climes or domes- 
tic ports. It is an avenue of wealth and wonder ; Oregon's highway to the 
sea. 

The government has appropriated large sums of money for the improve- 
ment of this river at the Cascades and when the work contemplated, is 
completed, this stream with its tributaries, will be the artery of almost un- 
bounded commercial relations with a vast domain north and east of Port- 
land ; the metropolis of the State. 

The Willamette river, the largest affluent of the Columbia flows through 
the heart of the valley of the same name, and at all seasons of the year, is 
navigable for steamers of 100 tons carrying capacity, 130 miles from the 
mouth. The largest ocean going steamers and ships ascend it to the city 
of Portland. 

Snake river, another navigable stream, and one of the largest tributaries 
of the Columbia, forms the eastern boundary of Oregon, and separates it 
from the Territory of Idaho. Steamers ascend it to Lewiston, a distance 
of 150 miles from its confluence with the Columbia. Along the coast, and 
emptying their waters into the ocean, are the Rogue, Coquille, Umpqua, 
Siuslaw and other smaller streams. In the eastern part of the State we 
have the Umatilla, the Des Chutes, John Day and many other smaller 
streams. 

It will be seen that with all these advantages of rail and waterways, the 
people of Oregon are admirably situated so far as transportation is concerned. 



8 OREGON AS IT IS. 



CLIMATE. 



The climate in Oregon has never yet made an honest enemy, for there 
is nothing in the atmospheric conditions prejudicial to health or comfort. 
There can be no more powerful factor for progress and for individual com- 
fort and happiness than a mild and genial climate. That is claimed for 
this State. The State, as a whole, has nothing to lose and much to gain 
by a careful and intelligent examination of the meteoiological conditions 
and a comparison with the most favored habitable sections of the common 
country. The climate of Oregon is signally healthful and invigorating. 
The strong point is its evenness. The mean average heat of July is 67 de- 
gress. The mean average cold of January is 46 degrees; showing a mean devi- 
ation of only 2 1 degrees during the year. This compares favorably with the 
! best climates in the United States. The violent atmospheric changes, or 
wide variations of temperature, so common in the Middle, Southern and 
Western States, are wholly unknown here. The summer is never made 
suddenly and abnormally cold — a reversal of the season — nor suddenly 
and abnormally hot. The extreme cold in the valleys, during ordinary 
years, is, for the most part, a white frost, with a formation of ice an inch 
'thick in exposed places. The atmosphere is salubrious at all seasons, and 
that scourge of many of the older eastern States, fever and ague, or the ma- 
larial diseases which arise in a sluggish atmosphere are but little known in 
this State. No matter how warm the days may be, the nights are always 
cool enough to enable one to sleep soundly and refreshingly under a fair 
quantity of bed clothing. There is never the heat that enervates nor the 
cold that produces a torpor or inability to work. The air offers the tonic 
coolness needed by a man engaged in outdoor industry, while it has the 
rnildness that is soothing and restful for his periods of relaxation. There 
is in the air that steady tone which is in itself an inspiration, and inviting 
to labor on the part of man and beast. Medium-weight woolen underwear 
is universally worn during the entire year. Sunstrokes are unknown. 
Meat may be cured and fruit dried in the sun, and the good house-wife has 
no worry about moisture on her windows or plastered walls. 

Here, nature has struck a happy medium between the climate of Cali- 
fornia, with its alternations of wet and dry seasons, and that of the Eastern 
States, with their shifting and uncertain changes. The slight rains, begin- 
ning last of September, fall with increasing frequency in the succeeding 
months, from November 20th, and reaching their maximum about January 
1 st. Diminishing then in intensity. We usually have a mild February or 
March, from then they continue through June, falling then semi-occasion- 
ally and exerting no ill-effect, excepting in case that the grain crop may 
suffer if far enough advanced. The rain-fall during a summer month may 
amount to two inches, or much less. Only twice in forty years have the 
grain crops been injured by untimely rains, for the season of harvesting is 
pre-eminently the dry time. Drouth is never known in the Willamette 
valley. 



OREGON AS IT IS. y 

VITAL STATISTICS. 

The health and prosperity of a State involves several elements; climate, 
soil, drainage and temperature. These determine to a great degree its 
sanitary condition. The natural drainage of Oregon is as good, if not better 
than that of the majority of States. The climate we have mentioned. 
The general surface of the State is rolling or undulating. Swamps and 
marshes or sloughs are few in number. The soil is a loam and vegetable 
mold with some lime and clay. The temperature as we have said, is quite 
uniform throughout the year. 

According to the mortality statistics of the census of 1882, Oregon stands 
at the head of the list of States for healthfullness, the percentage of deaths to 
population being .69, Missouri standing 1.63. It is the easiest thing in 
the world to write up this feature, and to make exaggerated and unsustain- 
able assertions, but the Immigration Board aims at perfect reliability, and 
therefore presents only substantial facts. These undoubtedly establish the 
assertion that Oregon as a whole,. or in part, is the healthiest portion of the 
continent. 

In evidence of the above statement, we present the following record 
(official) of the average number of deaths per annum m every 1000 sol- 
diers, by disease: Florida, 26; Texas, 50; New Mexico, 20; Department 
of the Columbia, 9. Taking the years 1878 and 1879, we have the follow- 
ing: Florida, 16; Texas, n; New Mexico, 8; Department of the Colum- 
bia, 1. 

RAINFALL. 

Below we give an analysis of the weather and a comparative table of 
the rainfall for the cereal season. This analysis is based upon fair, actual 
observation of the whole day exclusive of the hours usually given to sleep : 

July '84, 25 pleasant days, 3 showery, 3 rainy: 

August,. 30 pleasant 1 rainy. 

September, 19 pleasant, 4 showery, 7 rainy. 

October, 21 pleasant, 7 showery, 3 rainy. 

November, 21 pleasant, 8 showery, 1 rainy. 

December, 10 pleasant, 14 showery, 6 snowey. 

January, '85, 21 pleasant, 3 showery, 1 rain, 6 snow. 

February, 10 pleasant, 11 showery, 7 rainy. 

March, 29 pleasant, 2 showery. 

April, 25 pleasant; 5 showery. 

May, 20 pleasant, 7 showery, 4 rainy. 

June, 22 pleasant, 5 showery, 3 rainy. 

Total for year 253 pleasant days, 60 showery, 30 rainy, 22 covering 
snow and sleet- 
It is well enough to say that the days mentioned as showery have not been 
altogether unpleasant. On the contrary, they have afforded us an agree- 
able alternation of rain and sunshine. 



10 OREGON AS IT IS. 

The rainfall has been in July, August, September, October, November, 
January, February, June. 

As noticed at the U. S. Signal office, the rainfall for '84, and '85, is as 
below: 



August, '84, 0.33. 
Sept. " 4.25. 
Oct. " 4.01. 

Nov. " 3.24. 
Dec. " 7.52. 
Jan. '85, 4.57. 



Feb. '85, 6.72. 

March, " 0.63. 

April, " 1. 12. 

May, " 7.69. 

June, " 1.77. 

July, " 0.24. 



Total 39.09-100. 

The climatic conditions of Southern Oregon, as a distinct section of the 
State, are different from those given for Willamette valley. The winters 
there are claimed to be still more enjoyable. Rain is never of a beating, 
driving kind, but falls straight down. The yearly rainfall is 22 inches. 
Cyclones and tornadoes are unknown. Ice one-half inch thick is rare at 
Grant's Pass, and during the winter just past there was not snow enough 
at any time to track a rabbit. The lowest the thermometer went at any 
time was 16 F.. and that just at daybreak. Farmers can plow almost any 
day during the whole winter. The summer months are delightful. Showers 
come in the summer at proper intervals until July, and sometimes later, 
but usually July and August are dry months. Crops have never been 
known to fail, and a drought is an unknown thing. It can be confidently 
asserted that the climate of Rogue river valley, taking the year round, is 
better than California, or any of the more favored States. 

In the Eastern section of the State, the climate is to be recorded as dif- 
fering considerbly from that of either Western or Middle Oregon, or in the 
Southern tier of counties. 

MOUNTAINS. 

The two principal ranges of mountains in the State are the Coast and 
Cascade. They extend north and south in the western part of the State. 
The Willamette Valley lies between these ranges, widest about 50 miles 
above Portland, and narrowest 150 miles to the south, where the ranges are 
united by the Calapooia watershed. In the midst of the Cascade range we 
have Mount Hood, with its elevation of over 11,000 feet, and Mount Jef- 
ferson, 9020 feet high, as the principal peaks. Within view of the greater 
portion of the western and northern portion of the State, are Mount Adams 
and St. Helens. These ranges are unlike any seen east of the Rockies, 
and at all times possess a peculiar charm, and under their protecting influ- 
ence the valleys enjoy that justly celebrated equability of temperature, and 
a much greater degree of warmth in winter and coolness in summer than 
is experienced in a similar latitude on the Atlantic coast. During the 
greater part of the year the hills are charming in ; their robes of brightest 



OREGON AS IT IS. 11 

green. The Blue mountains are in the eastern portion of the State; a range 
running north and south. The mountains are mostly covered with a fine 
growth of timber and has the appearance of a vast forest. A closer exam- 
ination shows numerous small valleys and fertile farm lands. 

VALLEYS. 

The principal valley in the State is the Willamette. It is 150 miles in 
length and has an average width of about fifty miles. The head of the 
valley lies about midway between the forty-third and the forty-fourth paral- 
lels, north latitude, and extends along the one hundred and twenty-third 
meridian to the Columbia river, which, near the forty-sixth parallel, forms 
the northern boundary. The valley is hemmed in on the east by the Cas 
cade Mountains, on the west by the Coast Range, and on the south by the 
Calapooia Mountains. The Cascade Range separates it from Eastern 
Oregon. In the neighborhood of forty-four degrees north latitude the 
Coast and Cascade Mountain chains are united by the Calapooia spur. 
Throughout its length, numerous lateral valleys debouch upon it. The 
valley contains an area of about 4,500,000 acres, one-fifth of which is held 
by actual settlement, or used as grazing lands. The Willamette, a naviga- 
gable river, rises in the Calapooia Mountains and flows the entire length 
of the valley. Its general course is north, and in its flow gathers up the 
water of forty-two streams, several of which are navigable for steamboats 
of ordinary size. The smaller streams are well below the general level of 
the country, making the drainage perfect. The Willamette is not the only 
stream in the valley with an immense volume of water, but broken by ver- 
dure-clad islands ; flowing through this ". garden of the Northwest," now in 
deep forests, again in the midst of rich meadow lands, it is indeed one of 
the really picturesque streams of the continent. 

UMPQUA. 

Umpqua is another of the famous valleys of Oregon. It is north of the 
Rogue river country, and between the mountains of the Calapooia spur and 
the Coast ran'ge. The climate is genial and very even throughout the year. 
The Umpqua valley has an agricultural capacity equal to any we have here 
named, except the Willamette and Umatilla. The only resemblance to a 
valley it presents, as a whole ; consists in a basin-like depression which the 
center of the country forms when contrasted with the high mountains en- 
compassing it. The Calipooias on the north, Cascades on the east, Can- 
yon and Rogue river mountains on the south, and that portion of the 
Coast range known as the " Umpquas" on the west, hem it in with high 
walls of rock and timber. The interior of this great basin is composed of 
small valleys, plains, canyons, gorges and mountains. 

Formerly the Umpqua was a great, stock country, but gradually its pas- 
tures have disapeared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain ; 
still, the stock interest is considerable. On the bottom lands the excellent 
winter pasturage, at a season when stock on the Atlantic coast are being 



12 OREGON AS IT IS. 

fed on hay, renders the Umpqua region especially adapted to dairying. 
When the timbered portion has been cleared of its dense growth of trees 
and shrubs, the flats, hills and bottoms become extremely valuable for ag- 
riculture and grazing. The soil is good; no other could support the dense 
natural growth upon it. It is generally a dark mold, derived from the de 
composition of vegetable matter, such as leaves, roots, fallen trees, which 
has been going on for ages, mingled in the valleys with the deposits brought 
down from the mountains in seasons of high water. A rich red loam is 
frequently met with. As a fruit growing region, it is unsurpassed, and is a 
very desirable region ; we may say, one of the very best in the State, for 
sheep and wool production. 

ROGUE RIVER. 

Rogue River Valley lies midway between the Willamette and the Sacra- 
mento valley. It is especially noted for its fruit, ranking, in this respect, 
above most of the favored places in the country. The climate is splendid 
the whole year through, and the soil is prolific. The crops of grain are 
marvelous in the eyes of the eastern farmer. The soil of the foothills is a 
quick, rich, brown loam, and in the valley proper, a deep, rich, black, veg- 
etable loam. The valley has the best local markets and good transporta- 
tion facilities. 

Rogue river flows through the county for about forty miles, and fui- 
nishes a fine valley of rich,sandy loam for about eighteen miles. The valley is 
from one to two miles wide for this distance, backed with high rolling hills, 
covered with an excellent growth of timber. Below this, the river cuts its 
way through the mountains to the sea, with scarcely any tillable land on 
either side. Rogue river is a beautiful stream, with an average width of 
about 300 feet and a depth of three or four feet, with a fall of ten feet to 
the mile. 

Williams creek and the Applegate river form a narrow • valley of very 
rich land about thirty miles long. These valleys are already noted for 
their wonderful productiveness. 

Jump-ofl-Joe, Grave and Wolf, creeks are streams of some importance, 
each forming small valleys of agricultural and grazing lands. 

The Illinois river, with its tributaries of Deer creek, Sucker .creek and 
Althouse creek, form the valleys upon the western side of the county. 
There is upon each of these streams many acres of fine agricultural land, 
much of it still covered with brush. 

There is considerable government and "railroad land in this region, 
mostly rolling hills and small valleys, covered with timber and brush. 
Small tracts cf good government land can be found by taking plenty of 
time to hunt it out. Better land can be bought for small sums, and many 
places with improvements are for sale cheap by persons who have not got 
perfect titles. Many pieces of excellent land are heid here by miners and 
hunters who are not familiar with its value, and as they know little and 



OREGON AS IT IS. 1 

care less about agriculture, their places can be bought very reasonably. 
To people of small means, who are hunting desirable homes, this section 
offers many inducements. 

UMATILLA. 

Aside from the Willamette, no valley in the State attracts more attention 
than that through which flows the Umatilla river. It embraces the famous 
wheat growing region of the northern portion of Eastern Oregon. Uma- 
tilla valley is very extensive, and its agricultural capacity is simply enor 
mous. The soil is of the richest known in the State, and peculiarly adapted 
to the production of the cereals. All these produce abundantly ; wheat 
especially. Aside from this, the stock interest of Umatilla Valley is very 
great. Tens of thousands of sheep and cattle are wintered in the foothills, 
and pasture in the mountains in the summer. There are half a dozen bright, 
active, thrifty towns in this famous region ; good school and church inter- 
ests ; good society. The immigrant who intends to follow stock raising, 
dairying, or general farming, will find all the conditions in Umatilla valley. 
Wheat and barley are the principal grain crops, although oats, corn, buck- 
wheat, flax, etc., do well ; average wheat yield per acre, 30 to 40 bushels. 

This region is well watered by the Umatilla river and its tributaries, such 
as Butter, Wild Horse, Birch creeks and others in the central portion, and 
the Walla Walla, Tumalum and Pine creek further north. There is also 
an abundance of springs, and water is found almost anywhere at a depth 
of fifteen to sixty feet. Lying along the base of the Blue Mountains for 
miles is a soil that in patches of 1,000 acres has averaged 35 bushels of 
wheat to the acre, while smaller fields have averaged 50. 

Umatilla was formerly a great stock region, but that industry has of late 
years been superseded largely by wheat raising and wool growing. 

^^ GRANDE RONDE. 

Another of the fertile and pleasantly located valleys in Oregon is Grand 
Ronde, in MMMHb countv - It contains upwards of 280,000 acres of the 
best farming lands ; the soil adapted to wheat, rye, oats, barley, and all 
kinds of vegetables. As a stock raising region it is unsurpassed. 

It is one of the most fertile valleys on the Pacific slope, well watered, 
and very productive of fruit, grain, vegetables and hay. Wheat often 
yields from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, and oats and barley from 60 to 
80. Grand Ronde river flows in from the Blue Mountains and follows an 
exceedingly crooked channel through the valley. There are many smaller 
streams running down from the mountains, and along the foothills copious 
springs break forth, thus affording an abundance of water, which converts 
much of the valley into a natural meadow. Timber is conveniently near 
in the surrounding mountains. The climate is subject to greater extremes 
than that of Umatilla county, west of the Blue Mountains, though the 
winters are not severe. 



14 OREGON AS IT IS. 

A section of this region as yet but thinly settled is the beautiful Wallowa 
valley. The valley proper is some 40 miles long and about 20 wide, includ- 
ing the arable foothills. It is occupied chiefly by stockmen. 

There are several small valleys in Union county. One of these, Indian 
Valley, situated north of Grande Ronde Valley, is quite thickly settled, and 
is a rich grain producing section. Pine Valley is a very beautiful place, 
nestling high up in the roughest part of the Eagle Creek Mountains, very 
much isolated, but containing at present about one hundred families, 
Eagle Valley and Lower Powder River, in the southeastern part of the 
county, are places occupied by but a few people, who are engaged in gold 
mining and stock raising. 

FOOTHILLS. 

The foothill farmer of Oregon is among the most prosperous in the 
State, if not on the American continent. He has exceptional advantages 
over his brethren in the valleys in his facilities for stock-raising. He has 
untold acres in the upper hills, upon which he can herd his stock in the 
summer months, and where ne can, without difficulty, cut hay enough to feed 
his cattle and sheep in the snort winter season. It is gratifying to state that the 
valleys of the foothill counties of Oregon are coming to be appreciated. It 
is indisputable that the counties verging on the Cascade and Coast ranges 
are among the most productive regions of the State. The inconveniences 
of early days have all passed away, together with the often rapid getting of 
money, and with it the alternate forced idleness. One might suppose from 
these facts that all the desirable land is already located. Not so. There 
is still remaining large quantities of land yet unentered, which, if put into 
its appropriate crops, is more desirable than any level land, mixed among 
tracts less valuable. These lands are specially suittd to the man who, 
with patience and the help of his family, will soon make them into the 
most valuable in Oregon. 

On these foothill lands he can raise grain, and the best fruit, grapes and 
vegetables, and can always have flocks and herds of cattle. With the aid 
of sidehill plows these slopes can be utilized for raising grain of all kinds,, 
while for orchards and vineyards no better location can be found anywhere. 
There is still a good deal of Government land in these foothill regions, 
some for settlement through the railway land departments. 

AGRICULTURE. 

Oregon is preeminently an agricultural state, and no matter what in- 
ducements lie in other directions — and they are many — the essential fact 
remains that the true source of Oregon's prosperity lies in the capacity of 
her soil to supply staples necessary for the sustenance of mankind. The 
rery name, "Oregon," has became the synonym for superiority and 
plenteousness in production. Our soil is unsurpassed in its adaptibility to 
the raising of all kinds of grain, and larger crops with less labor, than any 
other State in the Union. Our resources and possibilities are without 



OREGON AS IT IS. 15 

parallel; and no where else in this country may ordinary labor achieve 
such exceptional triumphs. As regards the position which agriculture has 
attained, with reference to other States, progress has been slow, consider- 
ing the matchless advantages of our State. Small and mixed farming is 
the tendency of the day, and the progress points to the decline of wheat 
raising on large tracts, because by this pursuit the land becomes gradually 
too valuable to devote to a crop which is liable to return its raiser only 
$10 or $12 per acre. More lucrative pursuits will take its place, and these 
will be equally well adapted to the climate and soil. As a whole the soil 
of Oregon is unsurpassed for fertility, and, if we may be allowed the ex- 
pression, its versatility: for there is scarcely anything that will not thrive in 
this State. Such is the nature of the soil that it successfully resists all at- 
tempts at drouth or evils from excessive rains to a degree that has rendered, 
in all the past, a failure of the crops impossible. There never has been a 
failure of the crops in Oregon since the white man came here. Farming 
in this State, as in any other, means work, but it is not as laborious here as 
in most of the States. Farm machinery of all kinds is extensively used. 
Blessed with an almost perfect drainage, plenty of water in every section, 
and well supplied with transportation facilities for carrying produce to a 
good market, Oregon, as an agricultural State, is not matched by any in 
the Union. 

An impression has grown up elsewhere, that agriculture in Oregon is 
confined to growing wheat. This is as far from the truth, as to suppose 
that New York's product is confined to Orange County butter. Here in 
Oregon the farmer raises wheat, oats, barley, rye and corn, (in the southern 
portion of the State chiefly) buckwheat, flax, hay, potatoes, ruta-bagas 
and almost every kind of vegetables that may be mentioned. While in 
the matter of wheat, Oregon stands at the head of the national class, she 
stands with but few equals in relation to fruit and the other productions men- 
tioned. The area devoted to flax is not large, but increasing. So with 
buck wheat. Sugar beets are among the productions. Some tobacco is 
being grown now. Turnips and sweet potatoes grow luxuriantly in every 
section of the State. No larger pumpkins and squashes are found any- 
where. The bean crop of Oregon is something almost marvelous. The 
grasses grown are not matched anywhere. Alfalfa produces three and 
and four crops in Western Oregon; a growth four and five feet high is 
common. Red clover yields two and three crops during the cereal sea- 
son, and a very common height is four and five feet. White clover also 
grows luxuriantly. Superiority can be claimed for timothy, red top, and 
half a dozen other kinds of grasses. 

GARDENS AND ORCHARDS. 

The garden vegetables cultivated in Oregon embrace all the ordinary 
varieties known to the table: peas, beans, tomatoes, egg plant, pie plant, 
cucumbers, onions, asparagus,- parsnips, carrots, radishes, beets, cabbages, 
cauliflowers, potatoes, water melons, canteloupes, musk melons, citrons, 



16 OREGON AS IT IS. 

and the like. The growth of all of these vegetables, as well as the flavor, 
cannot be excelled. 

It has long since been fully demonstrated that Oregon is among the 
best, if not the best fruit growing State in the Union, and the beauty and 
flavor of her orchard products have never been surpassed. This is not 
only true of apples, but of pears, quinces, plums, prunes, cherries, peaches 
and the smaller fruits. Fruit trees will grow from six to eight feet the 
first year; bear fruit the second, third and fourth years, according to variety. 
They thrive in the valleys, as well as on the foot-hills, and up to a con- 
siderable height in the mountains, but especially in dry, sheltered soil. 
Yearling prune, peach and plum trees, eight feet high, and yearling cherry 
trees seven feet high, have been exhibited. Apple trees commence bear- 
ing very young, sometimes producing fine fruit the second year after 
grafting; and, if properly cultivated, are always in bearing when four or 
five years old. The fruit is large, highly colored and of the most delicious 
flavor. It is free from the apple worm and the bitter rot, and keeps re- 
markably well, many varieties lasting through the whole year. Pears also 
grow in great perfection, The trees begin to bear when remarkably young, 
and are exceedingly healthy and vigorous, and being entirely free from 
diseases, will live to a great age. The trees are very productive and the 
fruit highly flavored. Pears have been grown weighing over three pounds. 
Oregon is the very Eden for cherries, plums and prunes. Strawberries, 
currants, raspberries and gooseberries, of a fine quality, are raised in 
abundance. Several of the hardier varieties of grapes are successfully cul- 
tivated. Among the smaller fruits we have the blackberries, strawberries, 
raspberries, gooseberries and currants. In the Southern part of the State 
we may add, figs, hard and soft shell almonds, nectarines, apricots, quince 
and English walnuts. 

In many portions of the State, grapes seem to have found their natural 
element. In Southern Oregon corn matures hard and sound, and keeps 
well. Sugar corn is grown and broom corn is successfully cultivated. 

STOCK RAISING. 

The business of cattle growing has assumed immense proportions in 
this State; confined (on a large scale) as it is, chiefly to the Eastern 
portions of the State. With its unsurpassed prairie or bunch grass 'lands, 
watered with numberless streams, with everything favorable in climate, 
food and range, Oregon offers a splendid field for cattle growing. The 
Eastern is essentially a grass growing section, and is especially adapted to 
the rearing of beef cattle for the markets. But while a great number of 
our people are busy in stock raising, as many are interested in stock 
breeding. In one way and another the improvement of stock of all kinds 
has been stimulated, and in this way hundreds of thousands of dollars are 
being added to the value of cattle, horses, hogs and sheep in this State. 
Not only is it paying in money, but it is satisfying a laudable pride. 



OREGON AS IT lb. 17 

OTHER FEATURES. 

Perhaps wheat will always be the chief staple production of Oregon, but not 
the only one. Meadow and pasture can be adapted to the farm in such a 
manner as to yield a fair revenue, and answer another purpose that our 
people too often lose sight of — to sustain and even improve the fertility of 
the soil. There is no need that the soil should become worn out when 
stock raising of all kinds, and sheep husbandry, can be made relia- 
ble sources of profit. The farmer who keeps a few choice mares and cows, 
and breeds them judiciously, can make them pay well. Here, though 
land is valuable, sheep can be used to some extent as scavengers, also to 
sustain the fertility, and their wool and increase will make rapid and sat- 
isfactory returns. 

Poultry can be made to pay well, for we have a good market for eggs 
and fowls. This is already done, but could be better done than it is, and 
made a regular business. 

Dairying pays well when well carried on, and can be made a paying 
branch of every farm if carefully and scientifically conducted. 

Growing and curing pork is another branch of farm income; seldom en- 
couraged, but profitable even in a small way. All last fall and winter 
meat packers paid eight cents per pound for good hogs. There is not a 
single thing in the condition of our climate, or our productions, except 
that we have no corn as a general staple, to enforce this import of pork. 
We have the proper feed out of which to make good pork; and we do 
make some but not enough. Hams, bacon and lard are largely shipped 
here from Chicago, all of which could be easily cured here. 

Bee keeping is an attractive and profitable business. There are a great 
variety of honey-producing flowers in every part of the State, and it would 
be difficult to find, in Western or Southern Oregon, a season when the bees 
might not be pasturing. 

GAME. 

It would be difficult to find a better field for the sportsman than Ore- 
gon. In all the valleys of the State, deer, pheasant, grouse, quail, snipe 
— the last four of unusual size — abound. In the fall, wild geese and ducks 
swarm along the water courses. Wild swan are very numerous on the 
lakes and rivers of Southeastern Oregon. In the sage districts of the lat- 
ter region, the sage-hen makes its home. The Cascade and Coast ranges 
and the minor chains are frequented by elk, deer and antelope in great 
numbers, as also by yellow and silver foxes, mink and martin. Black, 
cinnamon and grizzly bear, wildcat, wolf and the cougar, roam in these 
mountains. Of the larger game, however, only deer visit the uninhabited 
portions of the State. 

PRICE OF LAND. 

A good deal of observation and inquiry inclines to the belief that the 
average price of improved land in Oregon is about $15 to $25 per acre. 



18 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Unimproved land in the valleys is estimated at from $5 to $15 per acre, 
though large tracts are for sale at a much lower figure — as low as $4 per 
acre. Improved land in the foothills is worth from $8 to $15 per acre, 
and this is among the best in the State for the man of small means. 
There are a great many considerations going to affect the price of land, 
such as remoteness or proximity to large towns, and the market and trans- 
portation facilities, the kind of soil, whether there are improvements — 
such as fences, barns and houses. Thus, one might go south from Port- 
land, say sixty-five miles, and find splendid parcels of land at from $30 to 
$40 per acre, and within ten miles of these bodies of land, and still in 
proximity to transportation, market and the like, find excellent land offered 
at from $10 to $20 per acre, or even less. All of this land is well watered, 
and most of it partially timbered. Indeed,locate where he will in the Wil- 
lamette Valley or in Southern or in Eastern Oregon, the immigrant can- 
not go amiss of all the conditions for successful farming. 

TIMBER LANDS. 

The timber lands lie mainly upon the interior slopes of the mountain 
ranges. The extent of this timber belt is very great; upon the western 
slope of the Cascades it is perhaps twenty miles wide, and runs the full 
length of the range. 

Of the timbered lands, the best trees are found at medium elevations, 
and are accessible by ordinary logging roads. They have a value depend- 
ing upon their nearness to market, or to streams of sufficient size to float 
the logs. The land is worth, for the trees alone, from five to fifty dollars 
per acre, depending upon the size and the number of trees. "Stumpage," 
or the price of standing timber, is usually one dollar, or one dollar and a 
half per thousand feet, board measure. The principal trees found on low 
lands are the fir, pine, yew, ash, oak, maple, balm and alder; on the hills 
there are scattering oaks and firs, while in the mountain regions grow the 
firs, pine, spruce, hemlock, cedar, larch and madrone, with more or less 
undergrowth, depending on the altitude. We have, also, the birch, wil- 
ow, manzanita, elder, black haw, service berry and juniper. We have a 
few nut bearing trees on the Calapooia mountains; there is a specie of 
chestnut, very small, and not of much account. Hazel bushes, bearing 
over plenty. Acorn oaks are common in some portions of the State. 
Black walnuts and hickory nuts have been raised from the seed. 

Few States in the Union have a larger proportionate area of valuable 
itimber lands than Oregon. In the past, outside a few locations, compar- 
atively little value has been attached to the timber in our forests; but in 
Tecent years it has rapidly appreciated in value. The oak and ash is com- 
ing into use as wagon-making material. There is a steady and increasing 
•demand for Port Orford cedar. White cedar, laurel, ash, sugar pine and 
maple are largely used in the manufacture of furniture. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 19 

MINERAL RESOURCES. 

Among the many great attractions which Oregon offers, the mineral 
resources and products are of really vast importance in summing 
up the wealth of the State. The mineral deposits are mostly con- 
fined to the eastern counties of Grant, Baker and Union, and the southern 
tier of Jackson, Josephine, Curry and Coos. Various geological surveys, 
and some practical working of veins, have made known the fact that in 
Douglas, Coos and Curry counties, we have coal deposits which are o 
vast extent. The coal interest in this section is assuming immense pro- 
portions and bids fair soon to equal most of the leading industries of the 
State. 

Marble is another, and a rich deposit recently added to the list. The 
layers are of good thickness and the marble is hard, free from checks, 
seams and defects, and succeptible of a high finish. It shows a variety of 
colors. 

Clay for pottery and brick, as well as drain pipe and tile is found to 
exist in many parts of the State. 

Iron ores, bog, hematite and magnetic, exist in masses, and may be 
easily obtained. It abounds on the Columbia River, extending from a 
point opposite Kalama, southward almost to the falls of the Willamette 
River. It is also found in large deposits in the counties of Columbia, 
Tillamook, Marion, Clackamas, Jackson and Coos. Smelting furnaces 
eight miles south of Portland. 

Deposits of rich copper ore exist at various points, notably on the line 
of the Oregon and California Railroad in Southern Oregon. Lead, zinc, 
tin, cinnabar, plumbago, gypsum, granite, limestone and sandstone is also 
found. In various, and easily accessible portions of the State, building 
stones are found in ample beds fot all demands. Light colored limestone, 
and olive brown sandstone are plenty, Good glass sand is found at sev 
eral points in the State. Building sand is abundant. 

Gold mining is one of the principal industries of Baker, Grant and 
Union counties, while other counties in Eastern Oregon do considerable 
in this direction. In these counties the gold and silver ledges, and gold 
placers are annually yielding large returns. Copper ore has been found 
in good working quantities, but no ledge of that metal has been much de- 
veloped. The placer mines have yielded richly. Baker City is about the 
centre of the mining section in Eastern Oregon, nearly all the mines being 
within a radius of sixty miles of that place. 

Gold was first discovered in Jackson and Josephine counties in 185 1. 
Perhaps the entire quantity obtained in the State during the last thirty years 
has not been less than $40,000,000, more than half of which is to be credited 
to the first decade in which gold mining was prosecuted. The more promi- 
nent mining camps of this section are Wolf creek, Grave creek, Galice 
creek, Silver creek, Josephine creek, Applegate, Williams, Althouse and 



20 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Sucker creeks. Coarse gold predominates in all these camps. Waldo is 
also another prominent camp. It may be said that the chief mineral de- 
posits of the county, so far as discovery goes, consist of gold, silver, cop- 
per, chrome, platinum, cinnabar and nickel. There have been many 
quartz, copper, cinnabar and chrome lodes discovered. Galice creek, 
Althouse, Sucker creek. Slate creek, Wolf creek, Deer creek and the 
tributaries to the Illinois river, also Williams creek, are known to be rich 
with gold-bearing quartz. The mining of Josephine county has been 
conducted with labor, for it is is but recently that capital and machinery 
found their way into the mines. 

The southern portion of Coos, and the eastern portion of Curry county, 
embraces a large part of the great mineral belt from which Southwestern 
Oregon and Northwestern California have been drawing immense wealth 
ever since the first settlement of that region. 

EDUCATIONAL INTERESTS. 

The value of a State as an immigration field does not altogether consist 
in the material wealth exhibited; nor does it consist of fertile fields with 
marvelous harvests, or in manufactured articles, but in these and in the in- 
stitutions which she founds and fosters for the moral and intellectual 
training of her children. There is no subject connected with our pro- 
gress and prosperity in which the people have taken a deeper interest than 
that of education. And they are manifestly and justly proud of their ed- 
ucational institutions. No State in the Union makes a more generous 
provision for its public schools, or has a more complete or effective sys- 
tem; and among the attractions of this State and the inducements it holds 
out to the intending immigrant of the Old World or our own States, none 
more worthy of attention than these facilities for popular education. The 
educational system embraces the three departments: The co'mmon schools, 
the normal schools, and the State University. The Willamette Uni- 
versity is located at Salem, the capital of the State, and is in a flourishing 
condition, with a full corps of professors and teachers. The Pacific Uni- 
versity is located at Forest Grove, and is supported by endowments. 
McMinnville College is at McMinnville. Collegiate Institute at Albany. 
State University is located at Eugene City, and the Corvallis College at 
Corvallis, to which is attached the State Agricultural College. The State 
Normal Schools are supported by appropriations from a general fund, and 
are free to all who desire to become teachers in the public schools of the 
State. The especial pride of the people is the public school system, 
The most remote and thinly populated districts have all the advantages of 
the public school system. Under this management the progress of these 
schools has been rapid, steady, and wholly gratifying. New districts are 
formed each year, and nothing is left to hap-hazard or incompetent man- 
agement. The head of a family who brings his children, and comes to 
cast his lot among us, need have no fear of failing in his duty to them in 
respect to education. They will find schools, and the best. As to 



OREGON AS IT IS. 21 

the schools and educational facilities in Portland, they are among 
the best. Much attention is given to the management of our State 
charitable and reformatory institutions, which are among the best. 

SOCIAL, MORAL AND RELIGIOUS INFLUENCES. 

The church interest is a dominant one in Oregon, and without marshal" 
ing any statistical figures or making comparisons, a fair account will be 
highly honorable to our people. Like all States on the west slope of the 
Rockies, Oregon has attached to herself a diversified population, whose 
characteristics, in respect to social, moral, or religious usages, are as var- 
ious as the lands and States of their birth. Oregon, in a religious sense, 
ranks well with many of the older States. There is scarcely a community or 
locality, no matter how isolated, but has its house of worship and a large 
and growing membership. In the cities and towns of the State the 
church edifices are commodious and handsome structures, and the pulpits 
are occupied by some of the most able ministers in the country. 

WHO SHOULD COME. 

General advice can be given only as to the classes of immigrants. The ap ~ 
plication of this advice to special cases must be the business of each indi- 
vidual himself. The same qualities are necessary to success here as else 
where. Any other notion will lead to disappointment. No one should 
think of emigrating without sufficient means for self-support for a few 
months at least, after reaching the objective point, for suitable employment 
immediately after arrival can not always be relied on. This caution ap- 
plies particularly to heads of families, who would be cruelly derelict in 
their duty to expose those depending on them to the risk of destitution on 
arrival. Families who contemplate settling on lands will require, after 
providing for all traveling expenses, from $500 to $800, with which to 
meet the cost of putting up a house, for live-stock, seed, farming imple- 
ments, provisions, etc. 

Good health is the first requisite of a person who proposes to emigrate 
to a new country, with a view of improving his condition in life. Al- 
though the climate of Oregon is so favorable as to insure exemption from 
many diseases which prevail in other States, and to promise relief in other 
ailments, the chances are that immigration will prove a mistake in the 
case of confirmed invalids who are compelled to work for a living. 

Generally speaking, persons accustomed to ordinary and mechanical 
labor, and who unite frugal habits with persevering industry, will run the 
least risk in emigrating; but individuals unwilling to work, or accustomed 
to live by their wits, are not wanted. Idlers will only go from bad to 
worse, and adventurers will not prosper. It requires health, labor, courage 
and persistence to succeed here, as elsewhere. 

We can not, at present, encourage the immigration of more than a very 
few professional men — such as lawyers, doctors, surveyors and civil en- 
gineers — unless they have money beyond the expected earnings of their 



22 



OREGON AS IT IS. 



profession, and are prepared to take their chances after arrival. Clerks, 
shopmen, or those having no particular trade or calling, and men not ac- 
customed to work with their hands, if without means of their own, would 
probably meet with disappointment, and perhaps hardship. A great many 
write to ask, if a mechanic, with a few hundred dollars, would be justified 
in relinquishing a steady job where he is, and coming to Oregon. We say, 
no. If a man has a good paying, steady job, he ought not to let go of it 
for an uncertainty. If he wants to branch out, and invest his money in 
a business for himself, then he can come, and with safety. Oregon offers 
him an ample and profitable field. As a rule the professions are all over- 
stocked in Oregon. There are certainly more lawyers, real estate agents, 
doctors and editors than are needed. Trade is also fully represented. 
There are stores enough of all kinds. Nobody here has over-looked the 
easy way of earning a living. 

To farmers' sons, or persons with moderate means, qualified for the life 
of a settler in this country, who can not see openings in older States — 
who can not go up, because the passages are blocked ; who can not go 
down, because their habits and pride forbid — the varied resources of the 
country would seem to promise certain success, if they avoid drink and 
are industrious and patient. 

Farmers themselves, with limited capital, who are uneasy about their fu- 
ture, and that of their children, and are prepared to emigrate, should con- 
sider the advantages which Oregon affords, irrespective of the climate- 
which must be attractive to all. They should have at least sufficient capi- 
tal to be independent for twelve months. It is often best for the father to 
go out and pave the way for the little folks. 

The monied man, who looks to the actual growth of industries in the 
State and the new permanent markets and industries which the transcon- 
tinental railroads create, and who considers the varied natural resources of 
the country, can not fail to find investments that will promise good returns 
on capital. 

ODD ENDS. 

The following are third class rates from prominent eastern cities to Port- 
land, Oregon, via the Northern Pacific. These rates are more or less sub- 
ject to change, but it is not likely that they will be any higher : 



From New York $70 50 

Pittsburg, Pa 64 00 

Baltimore, Md. ..... 68 50 

Cincinnati, Ohio .... 60 60 

Columbus, Ohio 61 50 

Chicago, 111 . . 50 50 

Nashville, Tenn 57 00 

St. Paul or Minneap- 
olis . 45 00 



From New Orleans $64 00 

Buffalo 64 50 

Philadelphia 69 00 

Washington, D. C . . . 68 50 

Cleveland, Ohio 61 50 

Detroit, Mich 59 5° 

St. Louis, Mo 53 5° 

Indianapolis 60 00 

Kansas City 40 00 



OREGON AS IT IS. 



23 



The following are emigrant rates to Portland, via the Union Pacific 
Railway and Oregon Short Line : 

From Chicago and St. Louis 

New York 

Denver, Col 

Pittsburg, Pa 

Wheeling, W. Va 

Omaha, Council Bluffs, St. Joseph and Ft. Leavenworth 



$5° 5o 
69 50. 

45 °° 
63 00 

63 oo 
45 0Cb 

The Board of Immigration Commissioners have an arrangement with 
the Oregon and California railroad, by which the new comer can go over 
the line on the east side (of the Willamette), to Ashland, 341 miles, or any 
intermediate point, or on the west side to Corvallis, 97 miles or intermediate 
stations, at a greatly reduced rate of fare, and enjoy the advantage of a 
stop over at any or all stations for a period of 30 or 60 days. There are 
no conditions; nothing contingent on this ticket. It is issued in order 
that the immigrant may have a good look at the country. In addition, 
the Secretary of the Board issues to each new-comer a card, introducing 
him by name to the agent of the County Board of Immigration, whose 
duty it is to show land and afford all assistance possible, and without 
charge. 

The immigrant coming west over the line of the Oregon Short Line 
through Eastern Oregon, and by the Northern Pacific on their way to 
Portland, has the privilege of a ten days stop over, at points he may select 
on the route. 

At the rooms of the Immigration Board in the city of Portland, which 
are adjoining the dock where the immigrant leaves the transfer boat, will 
always be found the Secretary, or an assistant, charged with the 
duty of imparting without charge, information in general or in detail, issu- 
ing reduced rate tickets, showing specimen productions of the State and 
looking after the interests of the stranger, in every possible direction. The 
immigrant has only to be frank and candid, in order to get frank, candid,, 
helpful information and assistance. 



The reduction obtained by the immigrant is about 40 per cent, 
following are the reduced rates to the points named : 



The 



EAST SIDE. 



Single 
Trip. 

Oregon City $ 45 

Salem 1 60 

Albany 2 40 

Lebanon 2 70 

Harrisburg 3 15 

Eugene City 3 70 



R.ound 
Trip. 


$ 


90 


3 


20 


4 


80 


5 


40 


6 


3° 


7 


40 



Single 
Trip. 

Drain $ 4 85 

Oakland 5 45 

Roseburg 5 95 

Grant's Pass 8 90 

Medford 9 85 

Ashland 10 25 



Round 

Trip. 

$ 9 70 

10 90- 

11 90 
17 8o> 

19 70= 

20 50. 



24 OREGON AS IT IS. 



Hillsboro 65 1 30 

Forest Grove .... 75 1 50 



WEST SIDE. 

McMinnville 1 50 3 00 

Independence .... 2 30 4 60 

Corvallis 2 90 5 80 



Yamhill 1 20 2 40 

Trains leave Portland morning and evening. The tickets are for first 
class cars ; none other on this road. 

The Land Department of the Oregon and California, the Oregon Rail- 
way and Navigation Company, and the Northern Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany are near by and adjacent to the rooms of the Board. 

At the rooms, the immigrant will find a file of the State papers, and a 
display of all the productions of the State. Besides these, he will find on 
record a list of about 1000 farms of all kinds, from which he can make a 
selection, and to the owner of which he will be sent. 

Persons who are looking towards Oregon as a future home, and are still 
in doubt as to what part of the State they would like, can get full, impar- 
tial and truthful information, by letter or by word of mouth, by addressing 
the Secretary. r !nhqs ' . . , -». ■■.• ■■^•™J H * 8J 

:commerciam ' '^r-£C^3 

Portland is the chief city in the State, and has a population of about 
35,000 people. It is the commercial metropolis of the Pacific Northwest, 
— and the basis from which to speak of the chief commercial interests. 
The city, the configuration of which is pleasant to the eye of the ordinary 
traveler, for the man considering it in a business sense, has all the condi- 
tions which favor growth and prosperity. All these combine here in a more 
than ordinary degree ; the capacity of the place for development and ex- 
pansion is almost unlimited, and the surrounding region, rich in but parti- 
ally utilized agricultural facilities in a continually enlarging market for sup 
plies. It has its own intrinsic force and it has a great and successful fu- 
ture. The city is on the north-west bank of the Willamette river, ten miles 
from its junction with the Columbia, 120 miles from the Pacific Ocean, to 
which it is navigable. In latitude 45 degrees and longitude 122 degrees 
West. South of Portland lies the great Willamette agricultural valley, 150 
miles long by 50 miles broad, named the "Garden of Oregon," narrowing 
itself as it approaches Portland, so that the three separate railroads coming 
from the Willamette with the river of that name between, are so concen- 
trated, by natural features, that they approach within one mile of each 
other before they reach the city. West of Portland is the Pacific ocean 
120 miles distant, to and from which by the Willamette and Columbia 
rivers, ocean steamers and ships drawing 22 feet arrive and depart for 
China and all European ports. It is the western gateway of the Pacific 
Northwest, and to this is added the artificial arteries created by the con- 
struction of the railways in this section of the common country. 

The following table shows the number of business houses and corpora- 
tions of the several classes in Portland. It includes such branch houses 
as have actual establishments, and are engaged in active business here, 



OREGON AS IT IS. 25 

excluding those which are merely represented by agents having an office. 
Incorporated banks are not included, but private banking houses are. Such 
corporations only are mentioned as make Portland their bona fide head- 
quarters and the central point for the expenditure of their capital. 

Capital. No. 

$ 40,000 to $ 75,000 , 45 

75,000 " 125,000 29 

125,000 " 200,000 15 

200,000 " 300,000 , 6 

300,000 " 500,000 7 

500,000 " 750,000 1 

750,000 " 1,000,000 4 

1,000,000 and upward 14 

The capital above represented aggregates considerably upwards of $30,- 
000,000, exclusive of the assets of the largest of our corporations. 

In the year 1882, the volume of business was estimated to exceed $30,- 
000,000; in 1883, it had increased to $53,000,000 by extensions to Mon- 
tana and the north. 

During the year 1884, the value of domestic imports by rail and water 
amounted to $25,213,880. The foreign imports $1,493,953. Value of do- 
mestic exports for the same time were $6,284,735. Value of foreign ex- 
ports, $5,648,116; receipts of wheat at Portland, 3,027,061 centals, and of 
flour, 403,463 barrels. Wheat and flour exported of the value of $5,599,- 
819. Exports of wool, 8,942,517 pounds, valued at $1,403,758. Exports 
of hops, 3,578,074 pounds, valued at $524,117. A grain fleet of 86 ves- 
sels, registering 92,272 tons, carrying 143,532 short tons wheat and flour, 
and 245,323 cases salmon. The wholesale trade of the city for 1884 foots 
up to $46,650,000. 

During the last eight years Portland has constructed 2,354 separate 
buildings, which unitedly cost $11,426,175 ; all within the city proper, ex- 
cluding Albina, East Portland and the suburbs. In 1877 only $320,000 
was spent on 109 new buildings ; in 1879, $1,162,706 on 385 buildings; 
in 1881, $1,150,075 on 353 separate buildings and in 1882, $2,469,600 on 
444 buildings, while during 1883, $3,618,550 were spent on 398 buildings. 
Then came the reaction of 1884, when the construction of only 193 build 
ings of the value of $1,683,600 was undertaken. These figures however 
demonstrate that the city's building progress. from 1877 t0 1884, kept pace 
with the development of the country through internal railroad construction. 

The rolling mills, the Portland Flouring Mills, together with river steam- 
boat, ship building, several large saw mills and four large foundries and 
machine works are the principal manufacturing industries in and near 
Portland. Except the rolling mills and furnaces, they employ 1,355 men 
and turned out products of the value of $3,044,000 in 1884. Although 
possessing an increasing agricultural trade, there has not yet been estab 
lished the maufacture of agricultural implements. In the minor industries 



26 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Portland employs 350 hands in clothing, realizing products valued at $500,- 
000; carriages and wagons and cars, 230 hands, value $250,000 In the 
manufacture of furniture, 420 hands, realizing $590,000; carpentering 300 
hands, producing $300,000, while in making boots and shoes, Portland 
employs 153 hands, selling goods worth $105,000. Its brick works, ba- 
keries, including cracker factories, rope works, soap works, candy, fruits 
and confectioneries employ 595 hands; yielding products valued at $880,- 
000. One noticeable feature is printing and publishing, employing 375 
hands and turning out work of the value of $810,000. The miscellaneous 
industries, blacksmithing, bookbinding, brass foundries, box making, coffee 
works, cooperage, dyeing and cleaning works, artificial ice works, jewelry, 
plumbing and gas fitting, saddlery and harness making and stoves, employ 
together 495 hands, and turn out products of the value of $1,040,000. 
The aggregate of all our manufacturing establishments for '84 was about 
$18,000,000. 

The salmon interest is one of the chief industries in the State. The 
Chinook salmon in the Columbia river is the finest. In '71, 30,000 cases 
realized $150,000. In '73, 91,000 cases realized $501,000. In 1877 we 
exported 389,508 cases, receiving therefor $2,338,000. The catch of 1877 
alarmed the fishermen. Last year however, we reached our maximum 
production, having then packed 672,350 cases which realized to our people 

$3>°25>575- 

Since the opening of the Oregon Short Line, fresh salmon are exported to 
the Eastern States in refrigerator cars. 

Salmon trout are wonderfully prolific in every stream, and too easy to 
catch to render it good sport. Oyster fisheries exist at Shoalwater and Ya- 
quina bays, and employ schooners in transporting the oysters to San Fran- 
cisco and Portland. There are two factories at Astoria for making oil from 
the salmon refuse. 

With regard to water power, that of Oregon City exceeds 1,000,000 
horse-power. That at Salem is almost unlimited, as is that at Albany. 

OTHER TOWNS. 

Among the larger towns and cities in the valley, we have Salem, the 
Capital of the State, about fifty miles from Portland, having a population 
of about 7,000 people; the Governor and State officers reside here. Al- 
bany, seventy-nine miles from Portland, is a beautiful city of 3,000 inhab- 
itants; Eugene City with about 2,400 people, is one of the thrifty, enter- 
prising cities of the valley. In Southern Oregon, we have Roseburg, seat 
of Douglas county, 1,300 people; Jacksonville, seat of Jackson county, 
1,500 people; Ashland, in the same county, with about 1,400 people; 
Grant's Pass, Medford, Oakland and other places. On the West side of 
the river we have Hillsboro with about 1,300 people; Forest Grove with 
1,000 inhabitants; Dallas, Polk county, with a population of 1,000 persons; 
McMinnville with about 1,200 people; Corvallis, a bright, thrifty city of 



OREGON AS IT IS. 27 

about 2,000 inhabitants, and a number of other, and smaller towns. In 
the Eastern section of the State we have The Dalles, with a population of 
about 3,500; Baker City, 1,800; Pendleton, 2,500; Union, 1,000. At the 
mouth of the Columbia we have Astoria, aptly called the Venice of 
America; a city of some 6,000 people, enterprising, energetic, and the sea- 
port town of the State. 

THE TOURIST IN OREGON. 
It is sometimes asked, what have you to offer the tourist and pleasure 
seeking traveler in Oregon? Much. Indeed, Oregon has more than her 
share of pleasant and picturesque summer resorts; places where the citi- 
zen or the traveler in pursuit of pleasure and recreation will sojourn for 
the season and part with reluctantly. Along the Pacific Ocean coast line 
of nearly 300 miles, and within easy and inexpensive traveling distance of 
the central portion of the State, we have a score or two of these summer 
resorts, where there is an inspiration in the air, and where comforts- and 
conveniences of all kinds may be found, at ordinary prices of living. 
What with variety of pastoral scenery; extent of our forests; nobleness of 
rivers; grandeur of snow-shrouded mountain peaks and verdure-clothed 
hills, richness of color; a flora that is rich beyond comparison; a fauna 
that is strange and interesting, and a climate which for serenity and even- 
ness has no equal in America, and all within reach of the tourist; there is 
enough to captivate his fancy, and to lure the invalid, artist or scientist 
from chamber, studio or laboratory. It is no wild exaggeration or fancy 
to say, that so far as the scenery of this domain is concerned, it is one of 
the grandest portions of the globe. Nature has showered her blessings of 
this kind with a lavish hand. Indeed, few sections of the American con- 
tinent can offer a more agreeable and charming combination of river, hill, 
mountain, lake, prairie and forest attractions than that of Oregon. The 
visitor should not fail to visit the picturesque places, within rapid, easy 
and inexpensive reach of Portland. A short ride up the Columbia on the 
steamers or the cars of the O. R. & N. Co.'s line, will give the visitor a 
splendid view of Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helens; take him to li Rooster 
Rock," "Cape Horn," Multnomah Falls and Latourelle Falls, both having 
all the elements of beauty in falling water, and to the Cascades, where 
the scenery is equal to, if it does not surpass, anything to be seen in 
Europe. At Hood station, the traveler will find stages to convey him to 
the base of Mt. Hood, 25 miles distant, where he will be surrounded by 
some of the most exhilarating scenery in the .vorld. The trip down the 
Columbia, to Astoria, and the seaside resorts of Ilwaco, Fort Stephens, 
Seaside, Seaview and Ocean Beach, and thence to a hundred different ex- 
cursion routes, can be made at nominal rates, and with but little expendi- 
ture of time. The steamers for Alaska, Victoria and the delightful places 
on Puget Sound, clear from the docks in Portland, during the summer 
season. Crater lake, Klamath county, is about 450 miles from Portland, 
and is a point of interest. It is 100 miles from the railway at Ashland, 
and 20 miles from Fort Klamath. 



28 OREGON AS IT IS. 

The lake itself is about six by eight miles in diametei and ranges from 
east of north to west of south. The surface of the water is six thousand 
three hundred feet above sea level and is completely surrounded by cliffs 
or walls from one thousand to nearly three thousand feet high, which are 
scantily covered with fir trees. To the southwest is a circular island, 
called Wizard island. It is six hundred feet high, and in the top is a 
cicular hole, or extinct crater, four hundred and seventy-five feet in diame- 
ter, named "The Witch's Cauldron." The base of the island is covered 
with very heavy and hard rocks, over which scarcely a score of human feet 
have ever trod. Farther up are deep beds of ashes and cinders, giving ev- 
idence of the most intense heat in days long gone by. Within the crater, 
as without, the surface is entirely covered with volcanic rocks. Ninety 
feet below the crater's rim not a breath of air can penetrate, while the sun 
beats down upon the rocky surface and reflects its rays from ten thousand 
upturned stones, forming a very furnace, and heating it beyond all en- 
durance. 

SUMMARIZING. 

The intending immigrant, whether he comes from the over-crowded 
districts of our States, or from the old country, has only to study through 
these pages to ascertain just what this State has to offer him. What he 
reads is accurate and wholly trustworthy in every particular; and is easily 
substantiated by facts here on the ground. The State has grown the past 
two decades in every direction, material and moral. Its soil is fitted for 
the production that will feed millions of people. It stands first as a 
healthful State. For the invalid this is a restful climate. It is an even, 
(but varied according to location) recuperative, tonic climate. And the 
conditions of life here are favorable; all the opportunities for progress are 
among the best in the land. All the possibilities for wealth are abundant. 
The soil is rich, fertile, and versatile. The productions belong to almost 
every clime. If the immigrant comes here to farm in a general way, to 
raise stock, to mine, to establish new industries, he will find just the sur- 
roundings and inducements he has in view. Our lands will reward him 
as a farmer. Everything in the way of soil and climate, market and trans- 
portation vill meet his views. Here is a broad, open field of occupation 
for those who toil for a competency. If he seeks government, railway or 
State lands, now is the time to come and make his selection. Each sea- 
son the limits of such lands are narrowing, and localities near towns and 
railways settling up. 

Unimproved lands are now selling at very low prices. After the public 
domain in this State has been exhausted, (and it will not be long to that 
date), the land in Oregon will very quickly go up to an average, probably, 
three times as high as the present one. The man who owns 160 acres of 
Oregon land, has a fortune for his children. The second Oregon is com- 
ing on. The present State and people are rich. The average farm entered 



OREGON AS IT IS. 29 

20 years ago at $1.25 an acre, is worth $40 an acre to-day. This makes 
an appreciation of many millions. The second Oregon will reap still more 
because of the land limit. In ten years the $1.25 to $40, will be $40 to 
$60 and $75. It is wisdom to invest now, if you intend to invest at all. 
Come with a will to work, and your industry and careful effort will reward 
you. With a State offering the potent inducements of an equable climate, 
an unmatched soil, splendid timber land, the best of water in natural 
streams and in wells, the highest grade of educational institutions, a domi- 
nant church interest, convenient markets, the permanent population of this 
part of Oregon, composed as it is of the best material, will most cordially 
welcome that, in immigration, which will add to the moral, social and finan- 
cial status, to the force that is to develop the limitless resources of this 
vast domain. 

THE STATE BY SECTIONS. 

There are three natural divisions of the State, and as many climatic 
areas. Three ranges of mountains, the Cascade, the Coast and the Blue 
Mountains traverse the State. From south to north, parallel to the ocean 
shore, runs the Coast range. Parallel to this, about 100 miles further 
east, run the Cascade range, extending from the California line to British 
Columbia. The Blue Mountains are in Eastern Oregon, extending from 
near the southern line into Washington Territory. 

EASTERN OREGON. 

This section of the State is an empire in itself, comprising two-thirds of 
the area of this State, and embraces the eight counties of Wasco, Crook, 
Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla, Grant and Baker. The climatic conditions are 
very different from either Western or Southern Oregon; yet desirable and 
comparing favorably with other localities. The winters are short, some- 
times sharp and at times a little severe. The thermometer rises higher 
in the summer, than it does in Western Oregon. The rainfall is less by 
one-half ; yet seldom drouth occurs. Spring begins in February and lasts 
till May. This is the rainy season. Eastern Oregon is famous for its 
wheat crops and stock raising. This region is now reached from the East 
direct by the Union Pacific and Oregon Short Line, the Northern Pacific, 
and connections with the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company. 
Each of these companies issue a stop over ticket to immigrants. 

BAKER COUNTY 

Is about 200 miles long and 100 wide. It has a population of about 
10,000 people. There are 11,000,000 acres of land in this county. The 
most desirable portions have been surveyed. Water courses are numerous 
and never failing, and from these much of this dry land may be easily irri- 
gated, while other tracts are not so conveniently situated. 

The leading tributaries of Snake river, beginning at the north, are Pow- 
der, Burnt, Malheur and Owyhee rivers, each of which has numerous large 



30 OREGON AS IT IS 

and small tributaries. The bottom lands along the streams are very fertile 
and frequently spread out into grassy valleys of considerable width. Some 
of this land, lying back from the streams and slightly elevated above them, 
requires irrigation to render it productive, much of it being favorably loca- 
ted for that purpose. 

The stock ranges of the Malheur and Owyhee are among the best in the 
West. The climate is in every way suited for that industry. But little 
rain falls in summer and not much snow in winter. Cattle have grazed 
here for fifteen years without other food than that obtained by them on 
the ranges, and have never suffered serious loss. Generally, they are fat 
and in good condition in the spring ; but occasionally, they .suffer some 
deterioration. As on all ranges, a small percentage die every winter from 
various causes. Running water is abundant in the streams, fed constantly 
by the living springs and melting snow of the mountains, and stock does 
not suffer for lack of water in the dryest season. It is estimated that 80,- 
000 cattle are grazed in the county, valued at $2,000,000, though the as- 
sessor's returns fall far short of these figures both m number and value per 
head. The stock industry dominates a large portion of the county, and 
however extensive the farming settlements may become in that region, this 
pursuit will always be an important and profitable one. The wool interests 
are also quite considerable, and large bands of sheep graze on the hills and 
in the little mountain valleys. 

The first great industry of this region was mining, and the country was 
first settled by a mining population. Gold and silver quartz ledges and 
gold placers have annually yielded large returns. 

During the past year, the population of the county has increased at least 
40 per cent, and the influence of this increase is manifest in the rapid and 
substantial growth of the center of supplies, Baker City. Carpenters, brick 
and stone masons, and in fact, mechanics of all kinds, have been kept 
busy, while real estate has advanced more than too per cent. 

There is no county in Oregon where an industrious man, with a small 
capital, can do- better than in Baker county. There is a great deal of va- 
cant land to be had, and unimproved agricultural land can be had for from 
$6 to $10 an acre. 

Baker City, a thriving town of 2,200 inhabitants, is the county seat. 

GRANT COUNTY. 

Grant county contains an area of 13,000 square miles- and stands at the 
head of the stock industry in Oregon. Its 8,000 people are engaged chiefly 
in mining and stock raising. There is little land, except on the Lower 
John Day and its tributaries, that is less than 3,000 feet above the sea 
level. The mercury falls sometimes quite low, but these cold snaps are 
infrequent and of short duration. Among the mountains, of course the 
climate is subject to sudden changes. Snow seldom falls to any great 
depth, except in the mountains, and seldom remains on the ground more 
than a few days below the timber line. Rain seldom falls from June to 



OREGON AS IT IS. 31 

September, except in sudden thunder showers that sometimes occur. Al- 
though the summers are warm, the heat is not uncomfortable, owing to the 
dryness and rarity of the atmosphere. The nights are always cool. 

The agricultural possibilities of this region have never been fully recog- 
nized. The farming lands consist chiefly of narrow valleys and adjacent 
foothills. "Bonanza farming," as conducted on the immense prairies of 
Dakota, is not here possible, but the small farm, producing diversified 
crops of grain, hay and vegetables, and giving support to a limited number 
of cattle, sheep, horses and swine, can be made to yield a splendid living 
to thousands of energetic families. 

The soil and climate of Grant county are adapted to the raising of all 
the hardier grains, fruits and vegetables. Wheat, oats, barley and hay are 
the leading crops. The nights are too cool for corn to do well, though 
corn is raised in the warmer valleys. Apples, pears, plums, cherries and 
berries of all kinds thrive, but peaches can not be depended upon ; yet 
good peaches are raised in certain portions of the county, where the topog- 
raphy favors them and gives them shelter from the extreme cold. The 
country is well watered by numerous large and small streams and springs 
of pure water. The northern portion is well timbered. 

Nothing but a detailed description of the county by its natural subdivis- 
ions can give an adequate idea of its great agricultural possibilities. In 
proportion to its total area the amount of arable land is small, but when 
the numerous valleys are considered by themselves, and their areas added 
together, the result carries the total far up into the millions of acres. Put 
together in one body, it would make a compact arable tract equal in size 
to some of the best counties in the State. 

The most important stream is the John Day, rising in four great streams 
in the Blue Mountains, after uniting, flowing easterly and northerly to the 
Columbia. Along this stream, its various forks and tributaries, are thous- 
ands of acres of the finest arable land, much of which has been occupied 
for years, while much more is still open for settlement. 

The county is rich in minerals, and millions have been taken from the 
placers here. 

There are five towns in Grant county — Canyon City, Prairie City, John 
Day, Burns and Drewsy. Canyon City is situated on Canyon Creek, near 
its junction with the main stream of John Day river, and has a population 
of about 600. It is the chief commercial point in the county, and is con- 
nected by stage lines with The Dalles and Baker City. The latter point 
is ninety-six miles distant, and is the railroad station for this region; mail 
being received daily by that route. 

Grant county as a place of residence would meet the ideal of a large pro- 
portion of immigrants seeking homes. 

CROOK COUNTY. 

Crook is a new county cut off from the southern end of Wasco in 1882 



32 OREGON AS IT IS. 

It lies on the eastern slope of the Cascades, in the very heart of Oregon. 
Its many mountain valleys and long ranges of rolling hills are covered 
with grass, and for years this has been a vast grazing ground for immense 
bands of cattle. The country is well watered by the tributaries of the Des- 
Chutes. There are many thousands of acres of valuable agricultural land 
along the streams and in the numerous valleys yet open to settlement. 
These lands are of undoubted fertility. There are also the vast stretches 
of bunch grass lands, which have been generally considered of no 'value 
without irrigation. This opinion is being somewhat modified under the 
experiments that have been made the last few years, and many now be- 
lieve that any soil rich and moist enough to support a luxuriant growth of 
bunch grass will produce good crops of grain when properly cultivated. 

As the principal industry is stock raising, and as stockmen generally pay 
no attention to cultivation of the soil, those engaged in farming find a 
ready market at home for all they can produce, and at prices that rule as 
high or higher than those of any other locality in the State. Only a small 
percentage are engaged in agriculture, hence the demand for grain and 
vegetables is equal to the supply of those articles. 

Prineville, the county seat, is the trade center and supply point for this 
industry, and is a thriving town, situated on Ochoco River, near its junc- 
tion with Crooked River, a branch of the Des Chutes. 

MORROW COUNTY. 

The southwestern portion of the empire of Umatilla, was given, re- 
cently, to form the new County of Morrow, of which Heppner, the center 
of the wool industry, is the county seat. This county is surrounded irreg- 
ularly by Umatilla, Grant, Wasco and Gilliam. Until recent years the 
principal source of revenue of that region was the stock industry, and 
there is probably no country in which the raising of cattle, horses and 
sheep could be more profitably engaged. Of late years sheep have super- 
seded cattle to a large extent, there being 100,000 of them in the vicinity 
of Heppner. Owing to a large influx of immigrants during the past two 
years, large areas of grazing land are now being rapidly transformed into 
grain fields. Land that was formerly thought valuable only for grazing is- 
now producing from twenty to forty bushels of wheat to the acre, or from 
two to three tons of hay. There is much of this quality of land still open 
to settlement. » 

GILLIAM COUNTY. 

The last Legislature created a new county with the name of Gilliam, 
taking land for that purpose from Wasco and Umatilla. Through it flows 
the John Day River to its junction with the Columbia, and within its 
limits lies much of the John Day region described in Wasco County. The 
leading industry is wool growing, though yearly agriculture is increasing, 
as land is being taken from the ranges and given to the plow. There are 
thousands of acres of good prairie wheat land open for settlement. The 



OREGON AS IT IS. 33 

county seat is Alkali, a bustling town of a few years' growth, lying on the 
Columbia and the O. R. & N. Company's line, which crosses the northern 
end of the county skirting the river. 

UMATILLA COUNTY. 

Umatilla County, since nearly one-half its former territory was taken off 
in this year to create Morrow County, contains about 75 townships, 2770 
square miles, or 1,728,000 acres. The present county of Umatilla con- 
sists of the eastern half of the old county, and contains the most ex- 
tensive agricultural region of Eastern Oregon. The present population is 
about 12,000. Wheat, barley, oats and corn are the principal agricultural 
products, wheat largely predominating. Prior to 1883 no grain was raised 
for export, the chief industry being stock-raising, most of the land being 
considered unfit for agricultural purposes. Gradually the soil has been 
tested, until it is now demonstrated that a great portion of the county is 
very productive. The soil and climate is well adapted to barley and oats 
as well as wheat. Some idea of the increase in grain raising, especially 
wheat, may be gathered from the following summary : — 

Year. Wheat, bushels. Barley. Corn. Oats. 

1884. 1,500,000. 300,000. 60,000. 85,000. 

1885. 4,160,000. 750,000. 100,000. 120,000. 
The average yiejd of wheat this year is officially reported to be 26 

bushels per acre. This includes spring and volunteer crops. Many fields 
of properly sown fall grain yielded from 30 to 45 bushels an acre. 

All kinds of fruits not strictly tropical can be successfully cultivated. 
Apples, plums, prunes and berries are especially prolific and of fine quali- 
ty. Peaches and grapes can also be grown in some portions of the 
county. All kinds of vegetables grow in abundance, and of the best 
quality. Though stock has been diminishing before the advance of the 
gang-plow and header and steam-thresher, there are yet larsje areas of the 
county especially adapted to grazing, which cannot be successfully tilled. 
The census of 1885 shows 22,984 horses, 20,805 cattle, 14,288 hogs, and 
253,717 sheep, the wool product being 1,638,856 pounds. The number 
of «heep of course include lambs ; the average yield of wool is about 9 
pounds per head. The total valuation for 1885 is about $6,800,000; net 
taxable property, after excluding indebtedness and exemptions, $4,275,000, 
or over $350 per capita for the total population. 

The climate is much milder than that several degrees further south, east 
of the Rocky Mountains. Excessive extremes of heat and cold are not as 
protracted as in Eastern States, generally lasting but a few days. Strong 
winds prevail for awhile in spring, but rarely in winter, and anything like 
cyclones are unknown. Though the soil is very light and loose, and no 
rain falls during the summer months, no irrigation is necessary. There is 
no healthier spot on the continent. The Blue mountains afford an inex- 
haustible supply of pine, fir and tamarack timber, and abundance of large 



34 OREGON AS IT IS. 

game. The streams abound in salmon and mountain trout. There are 
numerous streams, though the " hill land " at some distance from streams 
is quite as good as that adjacent to them. The Umatilla Indian Reserva- 
tion, containing about 700 square miles, or 448,000 acres, is a body of 
extremely rich and valuable farming land. A bill for opening it to settle- 
ment passed Congress last winter, and this will, no doubt, be accomplished 
in time. This will afford homes for at least a thousand families. Coal in 
extensive quantities has been discovered. The county has been and is 
being well supplied with railroads. The O. R. & N. Co's. line extends 
across most of the northern edge of the county along the Columbia river ; 
a branch of its line extends from Umatilla Junction via the Umatilla river 
across the Blue mountains, connecting with the Union Pacific ; and a 
branch is in construction between Pendleton and Walla Walla, W. T., a 
distance of 40 miles through the heart of the agricultural region. Wages 
for all sorts of labor are good, and no one who is able and willing to work 
need lack for employment at fair wages. Men entirely without means will 
have difficulty in making a start — except by working for wages — but those 
with small capital — say from $1,000 to $5,000 — can secure a good home 
here as easily as in any other county in the Union. Professional men and 
idlers are not needed. Although a great quantity of government land has 
been taken up during the last two or three years, there is still room for 
thousands of settlers who are willing to endure a few hardships at first. 
Pendleton is the county seat and principal town, situated on the Umatilla 
river and the railroad, and is the terminus of the Walla Walla branch rail- 
road ; is a prosperous town of about 2,300 inhabitants. Weston, Center- 
ville and Milton in the eastern part of the county, Adams, 14 miles from 
Pendleton on the Wild Horse creek, and Echo on the Umatilla, 20 miles 
north of Pendleton, are the other principal towns, Good church and 
school facilities are offered in almost every settlement. 

UNION COUNTY. 

This county is situated in the northeastern part of the State, and is 
about 100 miles square. The surface of the country embraced within the 
county limits is diversified and generally quite elevated, Grand Ronde 
Yalley being about 2,700 feet above the level of the sea. The mountains 
are much higher. In places they are five, six, and in some instances, per- 
haps, seven thousand feet above the sea. 

The climate is generally dry, though fairly seasonable as to rain-fall. 
The fall rains begin usually in September, but are not generally copious 
until the latter part of October or the first of November. From about the 
middle of November to the first or middle of March there is usually more 
or less snow, which in the more elevated sections accumulate? to a con- 
siderable depth, and in the higher mountains remains until late in the 
spring, not entirely disappearing on the highest ranges until June. The 
latter part of March, all of April, and the early part of May is usually 



OREGON AS IT IS. 35 

more or less interspersed with showers, and generally there are seasonable 
showers in June and July. 

There are not less than 350,000 acres of the best quality of agricultural 
lands, and twice as much grazing land, in the county. The residue of the 
county is covered with an almost inexhaustible supply of timber of a very 
superior quality, embracing pine, spruce, tamarack and fir. Union is a 
splendid stock and dairy county, and it is finely adapted to fruit growing. 
The timberless hills are covered with succulent bunch grass, while the 
pasturage in the pine forests, though less nutritious in its nature, is so well 
sheltered that the cattle keep fat and strong during the severest winters. 

Grand Ronde Valley is a circular, grassy plain, thirty miles in diameter. 
It is one of the most fertile valleys on the Pacific Slope, well watered, and 
very productive of fruit, grain, vegetables and hay. Wheat often yields 
from forty to sixty bushels to the acre, and oats and barley from sixty to 
eighty. It is cut off on the south by a high range of hills, which extends 
in an easterly and westerly direction, connecting the mountains on each 
side. On the north the valley is terminated by the mountains coming into 
close proximity to each other, being only separated by the gorge through 
which the Grand Ronde river flows. Either in winter, spring, summer or 
autumn it is a magnificent picture when viewed from any of the surround- 
ing heights. The river, which bears the same name as the valley, flows in 
from the Blue Mountains on the western side. It takes a straight easterly 
course until it reaches the hills on the eastern side, thence it takes a north- 
erly course, becoming very sluggish, and follows an exceedingly crooked 
channel. 

The inducements held out by Union County are attracting hundreds of 
families, and it will not be long before the best lands will be settled and 
brought under cultivation. 

There are two considerable towns in the county, Union and LaGrande. 
Union is the county seat and has a population of 1,000. It is a growing 
town in the midst of a fine agricultural country, which is surrounded by 
stock ranges on which are large herds of cattle, horses and sheep. Union 
is the shipping point for both stock and grain. LaGrande is also a busy 
village with bright prospects for the future. 

WASCO COUNTY. 

This is one of the principal counties of the Eastern Empire, and has an 
area of something like 2,350,000 acres of land. The county contains 100 
townships. Of this land, it is considered by our best judges that there is 
something more than half of it which has a soil suited to mixed farming, 
most of it without irrigation. It is also estimated that there are not over 
five townships, air told, that are not of great value a portion of the year for 
pasturage. This, with immense timber resources on the Cascade range of 
mountains, extending across the western boundary of the county, from the 
Columbia southward, and the timber border upon the Blue Mountain 



36 OEEGON AS IT IS. 

range, on its southeastern boundary, makes it one of the most desirable 
bodies of land in the Northwest, especially as the Columbia river runs en- 
tirely across the northern boundary. 

The everlasting snows of Mt. Hood furnish a constant, never-failing 
volume of water in DesChutes and its tributaries, which runs northerly 
across the entire westerly portion of the county, and pour their clear, cool 
waters into the Columbia at Fultonville, fifteen miles easterly from The 
Dalles. The westerly and northwesterly watershed of the Blue Mountain 
range sends its surplus waters through the John Day river and its many 
branches into the Columbia, twenty miles above the mouth of the Des- 
Chutes. Thus the territory of the county, which is about s : xty miles 
square, has the Columbia waters on the north, and is divided into three 
parts by the DesChutes and John Day waters from the south. The soil 
between these rivers and along the whole length of their sides up to the 
timber on the mountain slopes, is of unsurpassed richness, and suitable for 
vegetable growth and the production of grain, requiring ojily man's instru- 
mentality in working and exposing its top by the plow and letting in the 
sun and air to prepare it for his uses. 

From the earliest settlement of the country until recently that region has 
been largely devoted to stock raising. As the population increased the 
ranges were occupied and it became necessary to sell off the cattle. Very 
naturally the attention of the people was directed to agriculture, which for- 
merly had been carried on only to the extent of supplying local consump- 
tive demands. There was serious question as to the capacity of the country 
for general farming — not with reference to the richness of the soil, for that 
was unquestioned, but it was feared that the long seasons of dry weather 
would be fatal to general crops. The experiment, however, has been tried, 
and the result is highly satisfactory. Wheat, which was quite generally 
grown, is a splendid crop. The yield is reported to average from 22 to 26 
bushels to the acre. Many fields, particularly well cultivated, yielded 30 
bushels or more to the acre, and others, where farming methods were poor, 
did not produce more than 15 bushels, but the average was fully up to 
expectations. 

The spring season of northern Wasco County is a month earlier than 
that of the Willamette Valley, and its " truck " products could always have 
the first and highest sales in the market of Portland. The country is 
splendidly adapted for this kind of farming, and with it the drouths which 
must be expected occasionally will interfere less than with wheat as an ex- 
clusive crop. Besides, vegetable and fruit crops do not drain and impover- 
ish the soil as does grain growing. Northern Wasco is the most favored 
region of this much- favored State for fruit production. It lacks many of 
the climatic advantages of Southern Oregon, but this is more than compen- 
sated by its situation next door to the Portland market. Apples, cherries, 
pears, peaches and small fruits mature very early there, and their form and 
flavor is unsurpassed. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 37 

Planted at the gateway of the grand canyon of the Columbia, is The 
Dalles. Its location is favorable and commands the support of a wide dis 
trict of country north and south. The Dalles has about three thousand 
population. The shops of the O. R. & N. Company are located here and 
add considerably to its trade. Farming districts within reach of it, and 
stock ranges in all directions, materially build up the prosperity of the 
place. It has good hotels, the best of schools, handsome good business 
streets and many beautiful private residences. 

SOUTHERN OREGON. 

The counties of Jackson, Josephine, Coos, Curry, Lake and Klamath, 
form what is commonly known as Southern Oregon. It comprises the lake 
region to the east of Jackson, the valley of Rogue River, the Umpqua and 
the Coquille rivers, and a vast domain lying south of the Calapooia spur, 
and north of the California line. Whether we speak of Southern Oregon 
as a stock, fruit, grain, timber or mineral region, it is equal to any other 
part of the State. In many respects — fruit and corn for instance — this 
section is unmatched in the State or on the Pacific Coast. The whole 
section will stand the closest examination of the immigrant who comes to 
find opportunity for building up a profitable business and permanent home. 

The climate of Southern Oregon is its strong point; the healthfulness of 
the section in comparison with other parts of the State or with other States, 
presents it in a most favorable light. The soil is fertile and prolific. Any- 
thing that will thrive in a semi-tropical climate will grow here, and attain 
a degree of perfection unknown elsewhere. Southern Oregon is a very 
empire, the pride of every citizen there, and containing within itself all the 
elements of prosperity; the very place for new homes, new energy, new in- 
dustries. 

JACKSON COUNTY. 

It is not easy for a person to form a correct idea of Jackson county with- 
out visiting it; and even then a hasty tour, although instructive, is apt to be 
misleading in many particulars unless accompanied by the closest observa- 
tions and the most diligent inquiry. It is a land of novelties. In topog- 
raphy, climate, water, soil and products, it has its own peculiar character. 
There is a strange commingling of mountains and plians, hills and valleys, 
gardens and deserts; and their unusual and unexpected combinations are 
ever ready to interest the intelligent observer, and confuse the careless 
sight-seer. Climate and seasons are unlike anything known in the States 
east of the Rocky Mountains. The great differences of soil in the same 
neighborhood, and often on the same farm, renders any description made 
otherwise than in detail vague and unsatisfactory. 

It is bounded on the south by the Siskiyou mountains and Siskiyou 
county, California; an the east by the Cascade mountains and Klamath 
county; on the north by the Rogue River mountains, and west by the 4th 



38 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Standard parallel west and Josephine county. It is eight townships or 
forty-eight miles wide, east and west, with an average of nine townships, or 
fifty-four miles, north and south. This area contains 2592 square miles, 
or, in other words, 1,658,880 acres. Of this amount 278,000 acres are in 
cultivation, which can be enlarged to a total of 500,000 acres or more. 
Dividing the 1,658,880 acres into three parts, one-third is arable land, one- 
third grazing and one-third timber land. The arable land comprises the 
valley, table and rolling hill lands. 

The great diversity of soils and the admixture of the elements compos- 
ing one class of soil with those of another grade renders it exceedingly 
difficult, in the space at our command, to describe it so that one not ac- 
quainted with its peculiarities and the climatic influences can form a ra- 
tional conclusion concerning its merits. The soil of all sections of country 
seems to be adapted to the climate, or the climate to the soil. These con- 
ditions appear to be admirably adjusted here. There is no frost to loosen 
up or pulverize the mineral elements, but this work is done by chemical 
action caused by the admixture found in nearly every grade of soil. Noth- 
ing more astonishes the novice than the crops found growing on lands 
which appear to him as worthless. 

The same wide-spread variety of soils manifests itself in the products. 
Take, for instance, any of the valley farms; and on all them you may grow, 
with a reasonable amount of industry, all that is necessary for the support 
of man or beast; including fruits from the semi-tropical to the most hardy 
varieties. Couple to this the fact that crops never fail, that houses or other 
improvements are never molested by wind or storms, that the climate is 
mild, invigorating and healthy, and you will have a fair conception of na- 
ture's works to the wants of man who makes his home in this valley. 

In its climate, this delightful region has the combined advantages of 
other sections, without the accompanying drawbacks. It enjoys the warmth 
of summer and the frosts of winter without extremes in either. Having 
rainfall ample for all purposes, it escapes the continual rains of the Willam- 
ette valley. The annual rainfall ranges from 20 to 40 inches, averaging 
about 25 inches. The extreme limit of the thermometer in summer is 106 
degrees, though it seldom exceeds 90 degrees, while in winter it seldom 
sinks as low as 10 degrees, the average for winter being about 40 degrees, 
and in summer 70 degrees. Snow falls in winter to the depth of three or 
four inches. 

Thus favored we have no long inclement winters, or hot sultry summers. 
Storms, tornadoes and cyclones which visit other countries and scatter des- 
olation and death in their track, are here unknown. Spring and summer, 
autumn and winter, seed time and harvest, come and go in regular succes- 
sion, but the transition from one to the other is so gradual that one fails to 
'note the end of one, or the beginning of the other. The county is admira- 
bly watered. 

Rogue River rises in the Cascade mountains in the northeast corner of 



OREGON AS IT IS. 



39 



the county, and flows southeasterly, diagonally across four and a half town- 
ships, then bending a little more southward runs through two and a half 
townships ; and thence runs nearly due west, to the Pacific Ocean. Its 
waters being supplied by melting snow, they are cold and pure. Its course 
is often obstructed by some rocky bluff or spur, giving it a very meander- 
ing course. It runs with a bold, dashing current, passing over numerous 
rapids and cataracts, which afford fine opportunities for utilizing its water 
for manufacturing purposes. 

The principal estuaries entering Rogue River on the south side are the 
south fork of Rogue River, Big Butte, Little Butte, Bear creek and Apple- 
gate, while on the north side, Button, Elk, Stearns, Sams, Trail and Evans 
creeks. 

The mildness of the climate and the absence of any prevailing disease 
among stock makes this an inviting field for stock growers. Very few per- 
sons furnish shelter for their stock in winter. In the valley where it 
is more densely settled and the native grass more exhausted, more hay for 
winter feeding or more tame pasturage is required. Some of the best hor 
ses ever grown on the Pacific Coast were the product of this county. Stock 
or all kinds have always commanded good prices. 

Whether we write of this or the county of Josephine, there is no portion 
of the State where fruit attains such a degree of perfection, where the trees 
are so rapid in growth, so thrifty and so prolific. The flavor of the fruit is 
just as fine as it can be, and the size of peaches, apples, plums, pears, and 
berries is something phenomenal. 

By direct analysis the soil is found to contain all the elements required 
to produce all the fruits from the semi-tropical to the hardiest varieties. 
Over these favorable adjustments hang a climate co-ordained and adjusted 
to the conditions of the soil. Hitherto fruit culture has received but little 
attention, a limited home consumption being the only market offered. But 
the advent of the railroad, giving shipping facilities to the outside world, 
has caused this industry to bud with new life. There is certainly a prom- 
ising field open to anyone to embark in this industry. The great North- 
west must draw its grapes, peaches and other fine fruits from this section 
or others less favorably situated. During the past two years there has been 
a large number of choice fruit trees set out. The product from this will 
give birth to canneries and dry houses, which in time will offer a market 
for fruit. The seasons are propitious. Trees grow well and bear a bounti- 
ful crop. Frost seldom injures fruit to any great extent The ravages of 
worms, bugs or insect pests, so detrimental to other sections, are not 
known here. Favored by these conditions, fruit culture must become a 
pleasant and profitable industry. 

Ashland is the principal town, and has a population of about 1,400 peo- 
ple. This town is situated on Bear creek valley against the foot-hills of the 
Siskiyou mountains, 340 miles south of Portland, Oregon, being the south- 
ern terminus of the O. & C. R. R. It has a bank, woolen mill, flouring 



40 OREGON AS IT IS. 

mills, planing mills. Mercantile and business houses represent every line 
of trade. Its churches and public schools are an honor to the place and 
reflect credit on the citizens. The citizens have taken advantage of the 
abundant supply of water for irrigation and made their homes like a par- 
adise of beauty and pleasure. Her public schools and her college and 
State Normal School offer all that is required to educate the young for the 
duties of life. 

Jacksonville has a population of about 1,200. It has three churches, a 
public school, a school conducted by the Sisters of Charity, a town hall, 
county court house and jail, and halls each of the Order of Red Men, Ma- 
sons and Odd Fellows. Besides these, there are some brick residences, a 
bank and a large number of brick business houses. 

Improved farms on or near the line of the railroad, range from $20 per 
acre for common to $40 per acre for the best, varying from these figures 
according to the character of the land and the amount of improvements. 
Five to ten miles away improved land sells $8 per acre for common and 
$20 per acre for best, subject to modifications on account of improvements, 
quality of land, etc. Unimproved lands located in the interior are selling 
for $2.50 per acre for the poorest and $10 per acre for the best. While 
some may be satisfied with such government lands as yet remain vacant, 
we cannot advise anyone to come with the expectation of securing home- 
steads, other than such as mentioned above. 

JOSEPHINE COUNTY. 

Is bounded on the south by California, on the east by Jackson county, 
on the north by Douglas and on the west by Curry county. It is essenti- 
ally a country of hills, mountains and valleys, containing no broad areas of 
plains or level land. 

Its picturesque beauty, therefore, is beyond description, and its area of 
tillable land is not as extensive as other portions of the State, although the 
valleys are beyond all question among the most fertile and productive in 
America. 

Rogue River flows through the country for 40 miles, and furnishes a fine 
valley of rich, sandy loam for about 18 miles. The valley is from one to 
two miles wide for this distance, backed with high rolling hills, covered 
with excellent growth of timber. Rogue River is a beautiful stream, with 
an average width of about 300 feet and a depth of three or four feet, with 
a fall ten feet to the mile. The water is always clear and cold. 

Williams creek and the Applegate river form a narrow valley of very 
rich land about 30 miles long. These valleys are already noted for a won- 
derful productiveness. 

Jump-off-Joe, Grave and Wolf creeks are streams of some importance, 
each forming small valleys of agricultural and grazing lands. 

The Illinois river, with its tributaries of Deer creek, Sucker creek and 



OREGON AS IT IS. 41 

Althouse creek, form the valleys upon the western side of the county. 
There is upon each of these streams many acres of fine agricultural land, 
much of it still covered with brush. These streams in former years have 
been especially noted for their rich placer mines. In this vicinity there are 
still found good government lands, that will make happy homes for indus- 
trious and economical families. 

The resources of Josephine county are very numerous. In agricultural 
products, it produces well a most remarkable variety. Grain of almost 
every kind, fruits and vegetables of every description, not only grow, but 
attain a size and flavor, equal to those of any country. 

Stock of all kinds thrive well in connection with the farm, and there are 
several good ranges for small bands. 

Much wealth lies in its mineral and timber resources, for when they are 
fully developed in all their branches and manufactories are established, 
there will be a large home market for nearly all the farm products. 

This county with its fertile bottoms of warm, sandy loam soil along the 
streams, with its warm hillsides of dry, red land and cool granite benches, 
covered with immense pine forests, together with its sheltered situation 
and consequent immunity from wind and other storms, all conduce to 
make it well adapted to the raising of tender fruits and vegetables, as well 
as the more common and hardier kinds. Until the present fruit and veg- 
etable growing has been carried on only in an experimental and rude way, 
mostly on account of distance to market and lack of transportation facili- 
ties. But enough has been done to demonstrate their adaptability to this 
location, and now that the railroad has made its advent among us, we may 
soon expect to see the commencement of what will prove a lucrative as 
well as pleasant business, and in the near future assume huge proportions, 
viz: The production of both large and small fruits and vegetables for ship- 
ment in either a green, dried or canned state. 

What we have said regarding fruit raising in Jackson county, applies 
with equal force in Josephine county. Nearly every kind of fruit, apples, 
peaches, pears, quince, plums, prunes, nectarines and every sort of berry 
and vegetable, seem to have found in this county their natural habitat. No- 
where do these fruits and berries flourish better, nor is there any place 
where the trees bear more and better fruit. 

Fruit trees are generally healthy and free from moss so common to trees 
in the more moist climate further north, and usually begin bearing at two 
or three years old from the bud or graft. 

Corn and cane grow well on the sandy soil along the streams. Corn 
matures hard and sound, and will keep through the winter in an ordinary 
crib, and considerable syrup is annually made from the sugar cane. Broom 
corn has been successfully raised, and in the future will be an important 
industry. In the way of vegetables and garden truck, they attain a size 
and quality seldom equaled in other countries. Watermelons of prodigious 



42 OREGON AS IT IS. 

dimensions and exquisite flavor were grown last year at the rate 
of 1400 marketable melons per acre, weighing from 20 to 60 lbs. each. 
Carrots, of which one acre yielded 8 tons of fine roots, tomatoes that yielded 
over 400 bushels per acre and other vegetables in like proportion. Such 
things as squashes, rhubarb or pie-plant, horseradish, asparagus, etc., find 
here a congenial location. Tobacco and sweet potatoes have been raised 
in a small way and do well. 

Such statements as the above must be taken as a general average of the 
whole county, as it would only apply to the best portions or bottom lands. 
There is, however, a large amount of mountainous,. or rolling, granite hill 
land which has been thought to be unproductive; but recent experiments 
have proved that fruit trees, grape vines and many other things will grow 
and thrive thereon, and consequently it is being taken up in considerable 
quantities and converted into homes. Timothy, red clover and alfalfa all 
grow luxuriantly on the bottom lands without irrigation, but when grown 
on uplands need water. Grain of all kinds does well throughout the 
county. Stock find a good range the whole year and need no protection 
in the winter. Hogs are raised in abundance and are very profitable. 
The agricultural resources of Josephine county are still largely unde- 
veloped. 

There are considerable government and railroad lands in this county, 
mostly rolling hills and small valleys, covered with timber and brush. 
Small tracts of good government land can be found by taking plenty of 
time to hunt it out. Better land can be bought for small sums, and many 
places with improvements are for sale cheap by persons who have not got 
perfect titles. Many pieces of excellent land are held here by miners and 
hunters who are not familiar with its value, and as they know little, and 
care less about agriculture, their places can be bought reasonably. To 
people of small means, who are hunting desirable homes, our county offers 
many inducements. 

The mineral resources of the country are so extensive, so varied and so 
little developed, that to give an extended acount of facts based upon deep 
and expensive underground exploration would be impossible. We say, 
however, that mining has been the chief industry for over thirty years, and 
that a very large per cent, of the population of the county is dependent 
upon the mines for their support. The more prominent mining camps of 
the county are Wolf creek, Grave creek, Galice creek, Silver creek, Jose- 
phine creek, Applegate, Williams, Althouse and Sucker creeks. Coarse 
gold predominates in all these camps. Waldo is also a prominent mining 
camp, but in this camp, differing from all the others, fine gold predomin- 
ates. It may be said that the chief mineral deposits of the county, so far 
as discovery goes, consist of gold, silver, copper, chrome, platinum, cinna- 
bar and nickel. 

The timber interests of this county are vast and varied. The value lies 
not so much in the quantity as the quality, and the growing demand 



OREGON AS IT IS. 43 

throughout the northwest coast for our sugar pine. This is extensively 
used for manufacturing sash and doors, and when a factory of this kind, 
on a proper scale, is established, every sugar pine tree will bring the county 
not less than seventy-five dollars. This is the only body of sugar pine, or 
manufacturing pine, on this coast, north of California, that is sufficiently 
close to transportation to make it available. We are furnishing this pine 
now to Jackson, Lane, Linn, Marion and Multnomah counties, and as 
soon as a manufactory is established, which will be during the coming 
winter " 8$ or spring 86," we can supply all of Oregon, Washington Ter- 
ritory and Idaho with doors, sash, etc., and stop the importation of these 
things from California. 

Our yellow pine for flooring is unsurpassed, and this, together with our 
common lumber, finds a ready sale in Jackson county, as her timber is 
too far distant from her valleys to make it available, while ours is easily 
transported upon the railroad; and as the demand is constantly increasing 
we will have an excellent market there for years to come. 

The great value of our timber therefore lies in its susceptibility of being 
manufactured into such articles of trade and commerce as this great north- 
west coast is constantly demanding. Our most excellent advantages for a 
water power in the immediate vicinity of this timber belt also adds very 
materially to its value. Rogue river for fifteen miles above Grant's Pass 
has an average fall of ten feet to the mile, and furnishes an inexhaustible 
supply of most excellent water and would furnish a cheap and endless 
power for manufacturing. This power and the manufacturing interests 
connected with it are among the most reliable and profitable investments 
that this State affords. 

Grant's Pass is now the principal town, being on the Oregon and Cali- 
fornia railroad line and the shipping point for almost the entire business of 
the county. At the election held June i, 1885, it was decided that the 
county seat of Josephine county will be located here after January 1, 1886. 
It is situated on the banks of Rogue river, and bids fair to soon become 
the most promising town of Southern Oregon. It has to support it the 
entire resources of the county. Surrounding it is the large timber inter- 
ests, which soon will be manufactured into sash and doors to supply Ore- 
gon and Washington Territory. In a business sense, Grant's Pass is a 
bright, thrifty, wide-awake place. In the moral, social, educational and 
financial features, Grant's Pass is abreast of the best localities in the State. 
It is admirably situated, advantageously so with reference to the trade of a 
vast region surrounding it, and it is not likely that its supremacy as a con- 
troling business center for the county and the mining region, will ever be 
disputed. It has a population of energetic, pushing, liberal-minded 
citizens, who will create for the place a vigorous life and consequent pros- 
perity. 

Waldo is a thriving little town in the southwestern part of the county, 
surrounded with excellent mines and some good farming lands. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 

Kerbyville is a small place now, although in early times it was one of 
the most exciting and thriving villages in the county. 

DOUGLAS COUNTY. 

The most permanent, reliable and easily available source of wealth 
Douglas possesses is her winding valleys and fertile soil. Though small 
in proportion to the total afea of the county, the combined valley and 
bottom lands aggregate many thousand acres. The valleys have, in the 
main, long since been subdued to the yoke of the plow Or fitted for the 
grazing of sheep and cattle. There are, however, much bottom land and 
some valleys remote from the usual routes of travel which still offer oppor- 
tunities to home seekers. The soil is good ; no other could support the 
dense natural growth upon it. It is generally a dark mold, derived from 
the decomposition of vegetable matter, such as leaves, roots, fallen trees, 
which has been going on for ages, mingled in the valleys with the deposits 
brought down from the mountains in seasons of high water. A rich red 
loam is frequently met with, and there are found some gravelly and sterile 
tracts, also various colored and sticky clays. The best soil often extends 
to the very top of high hills. Wheat, oats, barley, corn, flax, vegetables, 
etc., produce in abundance. Corn is especially fine, a successful cereal. 
Umpqua Valley shares with the Rogue River region the honor of producing 
the finest quality and greatest abundance of fruit in Oregon. Apples, 
pears, plums, cherries, peaches, apricots and grapes grow in profusion. In 
the line of small fruits, especially strawberries, Douglas rules the Portland 
market. 

Formerly the Umpqua was a great stock country, but gradually its pas- 
tures have disapeared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain ; 
still, the stock interest is considerable, and it is specially noted for its ex- 
cellent quality of wool. Both gold and silver bearing quartz ledges are 
found in the mountains. The coast region of Douglas is similar to that of 
Lane — mountainous and densely timbered, with a coast rocky and danger- 
ous. A number of quite extensive lakes lie between the summit of the 
mountains and the ocean shore. The Umpqua river discharges into the 
ocean near the boundary line between Douglas and Coos. The river 
flows through the mountains between steep and rugged hills of terraced 
sandstone, from 500 to 1,000 feet high. Five miles below Scottsburg the 
stream widens and the bases of the hills recede from the water leaving 
strips of fertile land. All the arable land on the Lower Umpqua is con- 
tained in three little meadows, aggregating about 2,000 acres. 

The county seat is Roseburg, situated on the South Umpqua, at the 
junction of Deer creek. The United States Land Office for Southern 
Oregon is located at that point. 

CURRY COUNTY. 

This is one of the coast counties, and lies along the Pacific shore for 



OREGON AS IT IS. 45 

upwards of ioo miles. In its area of 1,500 square miles it embraces hills, 
valleys, plains and mountains. Some of the elevations are covered with 
heavy growths of fir, live oak and cedar, while others are bald, supporting 
a luxuriant growth of grass. Rogue river, whose principal tributary is the 
Illinois, finds its way to the ocean across the central portion of Curry 
County. The other streams of the county, all of which flow into the ocean, 
are New, Sixes, Pistol, Chetco, Windchuck and Elk rivers, and Floras, 
Brush and Euchre creeks. On all these streams are tracts of rich alluvial 
bottom lands, while there is much fine agricultural land in the valleys scat- 
tered here and there in the mountains. The grass hills afford splendid 
grazing for cattle and sheep. Much land is yet open to settlement. 

Thousands of acres of timber land, advantageously located, can be pur- 
chased from the Government at $2.50 per acre, or can be homesteaded. 
The salmon run in all the rivers is large. A cannery at Ellensburg is doing 
an extensive business. The shipping points are Ellensburg and Port Or- 
ford, the latter needing only a small breakwater to make it accessible for 
shipping purposes to the largest vessels that float. In this respect, and in 
the matter of its resources and industries, it is similar to Coos, its nearest 
neighbor on the north. The climate is mild and moist. It has a popula- 
tion of about 2,300, most of the people being engaged in stock raising. 
Its area is mainlv mountainous and very little of it has been surveyed. 
The people support themselves by sheep-raising, dairying, lumbering, fishing 
and placer mining. The arable land under cultivation produces sufficiently 
for home consumption. 

Ellensburg is the county seat, and is situated at the mouth of Rogue 
river. It contains a salmon cannery, two saw mills and'a grist mill. 

COOS COUNTY. 

This, as Curry, is a coast county. It is not large in extent, but is con- 
sidered exceedingly rich in all that pertains to the wealth of its settlers. 
On the Coos river there is good agricultural land, and the area might be 
indefinitely enlarged if the tidal marshes were diked. The coal interest is 
quite important. 

At the present time farming in the county is in its infancy, as not many 
who engage in this business are willing to clear the land of the heavy 
timber, and to reclaim the tide lands is quite expensive ; still, those who 
have made farming a business for several years and who have now pleasant 
country homes, find a ready sale for the products which are raised, and at 
good prices. The time is not far distant when all the low lands and flats 
will become one vast grain field; and very large crops of hay and grain can 
be raised when properly cultivated. 

The Coquille valley is the principal agricultural district. It is situated 
in the southern part of Coos county, and is penetrated by the Coquille 
river, which drains the major part of said county and also a portion of 



46 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Douglas and Curry. The frontage on the Pacific ocean is quite extensive. 
The land, for the most part, is mountain and bench, but there are many 
creek bottoms on which are situated some of our largest farms, and the 
Coquille river and its four forks have large bottoms. The upland is 
principally timbered and is free from rocks except in a few localities. 
This part, like most of the coast region, is free from ague, chills and 
fevers, and, in fact, health is so good that people who know anything of 
the country, look upon this part as a perfect sanitarium. Many persons 
who were thought to be hopeless consumptives, have become stout and 
robust after a year's residence in this climate. 

There is not a place anywhere that stock can be raised with better prof- 
its than here. One cannot find a place in our mountains so barren that a 
limited amount of stock cannot be kept on wild range alone. Down the 
coast in southern Coos and northern Curry, dairying is the principal indus- 
try, scores of tons of butter being shipped annually. As a wool-producing 
section, few places are better adapted. Swine do well, often getting fat 
enough for pork on myrtle mast. Feeding, even for beef and mutton is 
never resorted to except on over-stocked ranges, and as fat meat as can be 
seen anywhere can be bought at the markets every month in the year. 

Public lands are to be had in every township, by homestead, pre-emp- 
tion or private entry. The lands most suitable for farming are mostly 
owned, but there are valuable places for stock-raising to be had, and also 
valuable timber claims. 

Fruit of all kinds grows in exceeding abundance. The trees are large 
and healthy, and produce the most luscious fruit imaginable. There are 
acres upon acres of wild fruit in the mountains, such as huckleberries, 
black berries, salmonberries, etc. 

LAKE COUNTY. 

This is in the extreme southern part of the State, to the east of Jackson, 
and is .best reached by the way of that county, leaving the rail at Ashland. 
As its name implies, it is a region of lakes, many of them considerable in 
size. The soil is generally light and volcanic in origin, The county is 
about 150 miles square, and is sparsely populated. Its chief, and indeed about 
its only interest, at present, is stock raising. Its ranges are wide and fer- 
tile, but its isolation has hitherto prevented the development of its agricul- 
tural resources. So little attention is given to farming that a great share 
of the flour consumed in Lake is imported from the adjoining county of 
Jackson. An elevated county, it has many fine valleys and excellent land, 
subject to frequent frosts. 

Topographically it is a series ot ridges, rolling hills and valleys, all 
covered with sage brush and bunch grass, interspersed with lakes and 
streams, making it one of the finest grazing regions of Oregon. It is pre- 
eminently a stock raising region, and this industry occupies the entire at- 



OREGON AS IT IS. 47 

tention of the people. That agriculture can be carried on profitably in the 
valleys is certain, and it is equally certain that but little effort in that di- 
rection has as yet been made. But little attention has ever been paid to 
agriculture in the great stock regions, as the two interests are to a degree 
adverse. Stockmen do not like to see the land fenced in, and yet some of 
it must be cultivated to supply the needs of the people. Irrigation is nec- 
essary and can be had at a comparatively light expense from the many 
lakes and streams. 

KLAMATH COUNTY. 

Klamath county is in latitude between 42 degrees and 43 degrees north, 
and is situated on the Pacific Slope 1 30 miles east of the Pacific Ocean. 
The county seat is Linkville, a flourishing town, located on both banks of 
Link river, and distant 61 miles east from the town of Ashland, on the line 
of the Oregon and California Railroad. The county is bounded on the 
south by the southern boundary of the State ; on the east by Lake county ; 
on the north by Crook county, and on the west by Jackson county. 

The distinguishing features of the country are its high mountains, its 
beautiful lakes, rivers, valleys, prairie land, timber land, abundant springs 
(both cold and hot), game, fish, and fine scenery. The principal lakes are 
the Upper and Lower Klamath lakes, Crater lake, Tule lake, Lake of the 
Woods, etc. The agricultural districts are the Klamath Basin, the valleys 
of Lost river, Tule lake, and Sprague river, Poe valley and Langell valley. 
A notable feature of the county is the large bodies of swamp and marsh 
lands that it contains. 

The amount of arable land in the county is about 345,000 acres. Of 
this amount about 180,000 acres have already been entered, leaving about 
165,000 acres yet to be taken. Of the 51 1,000 acres of grazing land, about 
75,000 acres have already been secured, and the remainder, about 436,000 
acres, are as. yet unappropriated. Of the 1,250,000 acres of timber land, 
only about 10,000 acres have as yet been purchased. 

The climate may be set down as identical with that of Northern California - 
of the same altitude. According to the observations of the Signal Service 
at its station at Linkville, the lowest temperature reached in the winter of 
1884-5 was 3 above zero. The mercury seldom falls below zero, and when 
that occurs it does not generally remain there more than three or four days, 
but then rises again. In one exceptional winter, during the last eleven years, 
the mercury once touched 12 degrees below. The greatest depth of snow 
in the winter of 1884-5 was three inches, but at no time did it remain on 
the ground longer than ten days. During the past eleven years, the snow 
twice reached the depth of two feet, and once laid on the ground twelve 
weeks. But it is unusual for the snow either to fall so deep, or to remain 
so long on the ground. During the winters of the period referred to, 
horses running at large on the public range, without care or shelter, survi 
ved and did well. But cattle, and especially cows, it is always better and 



48 OREGON AS IT IS 

sometimes absolutely necessary that they be supplied occasionally during 
the winter with feed, and better still if they can have shelter. 

In summer the thermometer, during the* hottest days, ranges from 70 
degrees to 90 degrees, and on a few occasions it has reached 98 degrees. 
Like all other places on the Pacific Coast, the nights are generally cool. 

Crops of wheat, rye, oats and barley, yield abundantly. Wheat and rye 
volunteer in this county, and volunteer crops of wheat yielded thirty-five 
bushels to the acre. This is not a corn country, the nights being too cool, 
still green corn for table use is grown abundantly in the gardens. 

The native wild plums of the country, of which there is an abundance, 
indicate its adaptability to fruit culture. This being a new county, the 
orchards are few and comparatively young. Apples and plums have been 
raised here for a number of years, and have yielded well. Latterly pears 
have been produced with equal success. Cherries have also been raised ; 
peaches are not supposed to be well adapted to the country ; blackberries, 
raspberries, gooseberries, currants and strawberries yield abundantly. 

Potatoes, beets, turnips, cabbage, carrots, onions, parsnips, etc., do well, 
and yield abundantly. Pumpkins, squashes, melons, tomatoes and other 
tender vegetables, including corn, do well in favored localities, especially 
on uplands where they can have the benefit of irrigation. 

There is, perhaps, no better country in America for the raising of horses. 
It is also an excellent county for the raising of cattle, and for dairy purpo- 
ses. Certain localities of the county have proved to be admirably adapted 
to the raising of hogs. This is not claimed to be a first-class sheep coun- 
ty, although it is as good for that purpose as either Iowa or Missouri, for 
sheep have been, and still are, raised profitably in the county for wool and 
mutton. Thus far, the most profitable stock industry has been the raising 
of beef cattle, but the business of raising horses, mules and hogs, will un- 
doubtedly, hereafter, prove equally remunerative. 

The market for all kinds of stock raised in it, is convenient and practi- 
cally unlimited. Buyers of horses, mules and beef cattle make periodical 
visits to the county, taking away all the surplus of these animals. Under 
these conditions, a good plan for the farmer is to convert the products of 
his farm largely into stock, and sell it for cash. 

It may be remarked that only in exceptional years will irrigation be nec- 
essary in raising crops of grain. But for raising crops of timothy, redtop, 
alfalfa, and other grasses for hay, as also for gardens, and for furnishing 
water for stock, ditch water, in a majority of locations, will be a great con- 
venience, if not absolutely necessary. For household purposes, however, 
where there is no spring, excellent well water can always be had at a depth 
of from 15 to 25 feet. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 49 

WESTERN OREGON. 

This section comprises the counties lying along the Wilamette and Co- 
lumbia rivers, and is sometimes called the " Garden region" of Oregon. 
In naming it so, it is not intended to carry the impression that the soil 
here is more easily cultivated or surpasses in fertility that of other divisions 
of the State, but simply to indicate that it is more generally under cultiva- 
tion, and already so fully improved, that in some respects it resembles a 
garden. Nearly all of this region has long since passed beyond the trans- 
ition period which marks new countries, and in towns, cities and villages, 
as well as in the rural districts, this is made plain. 

This region is bounded on the north by the Columbia river, on the 
south by the Calapooia spur which unites the Coast and Cascade ranges, 
east, by the Cascade range, and west by the Pacific Ocean. This area con- 
tains about 5,000,000 acres. Not only do the physical features and char- 
acteristics of Western Oregon make it to the eye of the tourist an attractive 
country, but no section of America affords a better proportion of timber, 
water, meadow, up-land and plain lands for the use of mixed husbandry. 
Certainly no where else on the continent has nature more lavishly com- 
bined the elements of beauty and utility, and has left so little for man to 
complete in order to realize his ideal of an earthly abiding place. In all 
portions of Western Oregon the settler finds a gently rolling surface, with 
a soil of exhaustless fertility, and quite all of the conditions he would have 
chosen in creating a home. 

As we have said, he will find it rich in all that pertains to agricultural 
resources, in its cultivated lands, and no matter at what day or week or 
season of the year he comes upon it, there will be no uncomfortable suspi- 
cion that it is a little too near the north or the south pole, and he will 
never, under any circumstances, have to become an apologist for the 
weather, nor burdened with any responsibility for its unseasonable peculi- 
arities. 

Notwithstanding that most of this is the oldest portion of the State, and 
that much of the cultivated land has been in crops year after year for 25 or 
30 years, and that it has often grown a single kind of grain without manur- 
ing for thirty years. And the yields obtained from it now, are such as 
compare favorably with those at first produced. This region yields abund- 
antly all varieties of garden vegetables and fruits. In this section, there 
is a happy admixture of woodlands and prairies, and it is admirably watered 
in every section. 

MULTNOMAH COUNTY. 

The smallest, but none the less the richest and most populous county 
in the State is Multnomah, lying along both sides of the Willamette near 
its mouth, and extending along the south side of the Columbia from below 
the mouth of the Willamette to the Cascades. Multnomah county con- 
sists chiefly of the city of Portland. There is surrounding it considerable 



50 



OREGON AS IT lb. 



good land for farming purposes. Lying among the hills, along the Columbia 
river, is rich bottom land for dairy purposes, and a wealth of timber covers 
all the upland and mountains, contributing its quota to the sum of the 
city's prosperity. There are many desirable spots where vegetables, etc., 
can be profitably raised for the city market, which can be had upon reason- 
able terms, and good opportunities are offered in that business to one who 
understands it. Dairy farms, also, offer an inviting field for intelligent 
enterprise. Much of this land has been placed on the records of the 
Board during the year; especially that lying to the east, between Portland 
and the Mt. Tabor country, where berries and fruit are largely raised. To 
the west of the city the cultivation of prunes, plums and cherries are very 
successful. 

WASHINGTON COUNTY. 

This county joins Multnomah on the west. On the south, Washington 
county is bounded by Yamhill county. On the west, it rises to the crest 
of the Coast range, the summit of which forms the boundary line between 
Washington and Tillamook counties. 

It is pretty nearly square in form, and contains something over 300,000 
acres. As already noted, it is the most northerly and nearest the sea- 
board of all the agricultural counties of the State. This will be seen, at a 
glance, to give now, and at all times in the future, a marked advantage to 
the farmers of this county. The advantage of a few cents on the hundred 
in transportation amounts, in the course of the year, to a vast aggregate. 
The climate of Washington county is essentially the same as that of all the 
Willamette valley. Flowers bloomed out of doors February 8th; cherries 
and plums were in full bloom on the 18th of March last. 

The soil of Washington county varies, of course, according to local con- 
ditions, but may be described in general, as a strong clay subsoil, with a 
covering of from a few inches to several feet of the richest loam, and can 
be plowed without injury to soil almost every month in the year. The up- 
land, or hill land, is very pliable and can be plowed at any season of the 
year. The soil of this county is of great fertility, and so durable is it, 
that on the Tualatin bottoms the thirtieth successive crop of wheat has 
yielded forty bushels to the acre. 

The level portion of this county — about four-fifths of its surface — is 
about two-thirds natural prairie, and one-third brush and timber land. 
The hill part is practically all brush and timber, though occasional patches 
are bare by nature. 

Washington county presents a most pleasing as well as most convenient 
alternation of hill, plain, valley, prairie and timber. Little, even of the 
hill region, is so steep as to forbid cultivation, and none of the surface of 
the country is so flat as to forbid drainage. The running streams of this 
county furnish an abundance of the best of water for stock, and never- 
failing springs of the purest, almost ice-cold water abound. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 51 

No part of the Willamette valley is superior to Washington count)' in 
natural adaptability to fruit culture, and no part of Oregon can excel it in 
the quality of its fruit productions, except possibly grapes and peaches. 
Among its wild fruits are vast quantities of berries — strawberries, black- 
berries, huckleberries, and raspberries. Many other kinds are found in 
the mountains, all of them of excellent flavor and quality. 

Washington county may justly be said to be the first county in the 
valley in the production of timothy, redtop, orchard grass, rye grass, and 
all other tame and cultivated grasses. The lands of Washington county, 
that are for sale, are cheaper, in proportion to quality and location, and 
the other advantages before referred to, than any others in the Willamette 
valley. They vary, of course, all the way from $4 or $5 to $60 per acre; 
the former being the cost of fertile unimproved timber and brush land, and 
the latter that of the best and most highly cultivated land in the immedi- 
ate vicinity of the larger towns. Personal inspection is needed, of course, 
to balance advantages and disadvantages, and immigrants will do well to 
make such inspection before purchasing elsewhere. We may say, however, 
that fine farms, reasonably well improved, and well located, can be pur- 
chased on easy terms at from $15 to $40 per acre. 

CLACKAMAS COUNTY. 

Clackamas county, lying on both sides of the Willamette river, embraces 
an area of more than a million acres. The greater portion of the county 
lies on the east side of the Willamette river and extending to the summit 
of the Cascade range of mountains. In its general features it might be 
denominated hilly or rolling. The numerous mountain streams, traversing 
it from east to west, naturally divide it into bottoms and plateaus, afford- 
ing a variety of soil. 

On the low bottom lands referred to, the soil is generally a black loam 
of surpassing fertility, especially adapted to grasses, oats, barley and vege- 
tables of all kinds. The table lands are of a redish clay loam nature, very 
satisfactory to cultivate, answering quickly to all kinds of manures, and 
excel the bottom lands for wheat, clover and fruits. The uplands, by 
reason of their perfect natural drainage, affording especial advantages in 
the raising of fall wheat. These lands can be plowed at any time during 
the winter, a hard rain not stopping the plow but for a few hours, thus in- 
suring early crops and an early harvest. 

Ab^ut half a million acres of land in the county has passed into the 
hands of private individuals, the balance being rougher and more broken, 
extends toward the summit of the Cascade mountains and affords luxuriant 
summer pasture for stock and opportunities in this direction, by reason of 
our proximity to market, not enjoyed by any other county in the State. A 
fair portion of this unoccupied land is yet open to settlement by home- 
stead and pre-emption. No county in the State has as fine water as 
Clackamas countv. 



52 OREGON AS IT IS. 



% 



What is true of a near market for stock is just as applicable to fruit 
growing and gardening and for that matter, for all things that a farmer 
grows and wishes to sell. This county has carried off more premiums for 
its fruit, grasses and vegetables than any other county and always feels 
able to do it again. Our lands cannot be excelled in the State and yet* 
strange to say, farms can be purchased here within a day's journey to 
Portland, as cheap or cheaper than elsewhere in distant parts of the State. 
Many of the finest fruit and garden farms in the State are in this county. 
All fruits common to the valley grow here and a near market makes their 
culture very profitable. Oregon City is the county seat of Clackamas 
county and has a population of about 2,000. Is situated at the falls of the 
Willamette, is healthful, and has a water power unsurpassed in the known 
world. Small farms near that city are offered all the way from $6 to $30 
per acre. 

MARION COUNTY. 

This, one of the oldest portions of the State, comprises a beautiful re- 
gion of country, immediately south of Clackamas. There is no county in 
Oregon better adapted for diversified farming - and none in which greater 
success has always attended the efforts of the thrifty farmer. It has a 
river frontage of about 60 miles, and in its area it embraces some 1,200 
miles of prairie, foothill and mountain, the greater portion of which is 
available for agriculture. 

Rich in its agricultural resources, in its water powers and minerals; as rich 
in its colleges and schools of learning, and a climate unsurpassed for its 
salubrity, it presents to the immigrant from the evercrowded States, who 
comes to the coast with some means, superior advantages. The product- 
iveness of the soil is marvelous to those who are accustomed to the small 
crops of the East. With good cultivation, 40 bushels of wheat to the acre 
can be readily secured. A large percentage of that grown is white wheat, 
and the berry is large and plump, often weighing 64 pounds to the meas- 
ured bushel. Fruits of all kinds that grow in the temperate zones are at 
home here. 

There are two main divisions, the mountains and the valley. The latter 
extends from the Willamette river to the foot of the Cascade mountains, a 
distance of about fifteen miles. 

The mountainous portion contains some fourteen townships of mostly un- 
surveyed land, lying in a strip twelve miles north and south by forty miles 
east and west, and comprises all classes of land. 

As a stock county, Marion is good. Horses, cattle, sheep and swine are 
almost free from disease, and the mildness of the climate and productive- 
ness of the soil renders their raising a matter of comparatively little ex- 
pense. 



OREGON AS IT IS. 53 

Land in Marion county can be purchased at prices varying from $4.50 
to $30 per acre. The cheap lands, however, are in the foothill portions 
of the county, and require considerable labor to bring into profitable cul- 
tivation. The valley lands can be purchased for $10 per acre upwards. 
An immigrant with means can find land to suit him in the county at not 
unreasonable figures. 

The tax levy for the current year is fourteen mills, being lower than any 
other county in the State. 

The Willamette river, with two lines of railroad running the entire length 
of the county from north to south, gives the producer and merchant ample 
facilities to reach Portland markets. 

Salem, the capitol of the State, is in the county, and is the most hand- 
somely laid out town in the State. The private and public buildings reflect 
great credit upon its citizens, and give evidence of the confidence which 
the people have in the future of the place. 

The trade of the county is divided with the various towns, the principal 
one being Gervias, which has grown up since 1870. Silverton, on the 
Narrow Gauge Railroad, has long been one of the principal business points 
in the county outside of Salem, and since the construction of the railroad 
it has improved very rapidly. 

Salem homes are, as a general thing, well spread out, the lots being usu- 
ally 62^x125 feet large, giving them attractive lawns and fertile garden 
spots. To those who desire a most healthful and pleasant climate, with 
fine lands at prices as above, Marion county offers them superior induce- 
ments; or if they seek a locality for fruit growing, for stock raising, for a 
dairy business, lumbering or flouring mills, or for any other branch of in- 
dustry or manufacturing, this county offers extraordinary advantages. 

The following is the assessment of Marion county for 1885 : There are 
mortgages amounting to $1,009,034 recorded in the county. Number of 
acres of agricultural land 391,748, value $4,169,945 ; value of all lots in 
cities and towns $1,228,208 ; value of improvements $353,113 ; value of 
merchandise and implements $697,386 ; money, notes, accounts, and 
shares of stock, $758,606 ; value of household furniture, pleasure carriages, 
watches, etc., $310,650; number of horses and mules, 6,166, valued at 
$341,314 ; number of cattle 10,295, valued at $158,929; number of sheep 
and goats, 30,245, valued at $35,808; and 8093 head of swine worth 
$ z 7j339- T ne gross value of all property in the county is placed at $9,- 
079,362 ; and the indebtedness at $2,564,221 ; exempt from taxes, $590,- 
736. Total value of taxable property, $5,924,345 ; as equalized by the 
Board of Equalization, $4,756,777. Number of polls 1790. 



54 OREGON AS IT IS. 

YAMHILL COUNTY. 

The land of this county, and the inducements to immigrants, are among 
the best in the State. It lies south of Washington, and between the Coast 
range and Willamette river. It is an agricultural county. It is one of the 
most thickly settled counties in the State, and to-day has within its bound- 
aries more of the early pioneers than any other. It is connected with 
Portland by river and railroad facilities, and has better transportation facil- 
ties, to market, as a whole, than any county in the State. The Yamhill 
river and Willamette are both at its command, while it has the Oregon 
Central and Narrow Gauge running through different parts of the agricul- 
tural section. 

The surface of Yamhill is, in the main, gently rolling, the hills, to their 
very summits, producing magnificent crops of wheat, which, for excellence 
of quality, is not surpassed anywhere in the world. Yamhill has more 
pasture land than Washington, and much more stock, but the latter is not 
of such high grade. 

Within twenty miles of McMinnville, the immigrant can find a few sec- 
tions of Government land. It was burned over some 30 years ago, and is 
now a good pasture for cattle and sheep. 

Wheat and stock raising are the chief industries. As a people, the resi- 
dents of Yamhill are unusually prosperous. In no other county is the 
average of wealth so great. 

There is some land open for settlement in this county, and the new- 
comer will have no difficulty in getting improved land at what he is likely 
to consider extremely reasonable rates. 

Lafayette is the county seat, which is located on the banks of the Yam- 
hill, about fifteen miles from the Willamette. 

McMinnville is the principal town in the county, located on the Yamhill 
river, and also on the West Side Railroad. It is a beautiful town, sur- 
rounded with the finest of agricultural lands. The McMinnville College, 
an old and very excellent establishment, is located here and has a large 
number of students, whose presence gives the town a very pleasant social 
activity. 

Dayton is a river point, and the terminus on the Yamhill river of the 
narrow gauge railroad, which runs through the southern part of Yamhill 
county and the northern part of Polk. 

LINN COUNTY. 

This county joins Marion on the south. Although not one of the largest 



OREGON AS IT IS. 



55 



in the State, it is, in fact, the seventh in size ; it is 300 square miles larger 
than the State of Delaware. It is twice as large as Rhode Island, and 
more than half as large as Massachusetts. 

There is not in the Willamette valley a more inviting field for immigrants 
than in Linn county. The county is of compact form, embracing between 
six and seven tiers of townships from north to south, and eleven or twelve 
from east to west, the area in acres being about 1,250,000, or 7,812 quarter 
section tracts. 

The soil on the margins of the water-courses is a black alluvial deposit 
or a sandy loam, with a clay subsoil ; and the uplands are generally char- 
acterized by red, brown or black loam. These soils are all rich and deep, 
producing abundantly grains, fruits and vegetables. "The white lands" 
form a destinctive and inferior class, but when increased population shall 
make their reclamation necessary — a period not distant — a system of drain- 
age and other improvement will undoubtedly be inaugurated that will re- 
sult in bringing them under cultivation. 

Nowhere in the world do small grains do better than in the country 
around Albany and tributary to it in trade. The yield of wheat not infre- 
quently reaching 45 bushels to the acre, and it invariably weighs over 60 
lbs. to the bushel, sometimes turning the scales at 65. 

Oats yield from 60 to 75 bushels to the acre, and have been known to 
weigh 39 lbs. to the bushel. Barley does equally as well. Corn does not 
do as well here as in localities of sultry nights. 

Flax is extensively cultivated for the seed; and experts, after a practical 
test, have pronounced Oregon lint the best in the world. 

Albany, the Queen City of the Willamette valley, is the county seat of 
Linn county. In moral tone, its people take the highest ground ; its 
churches and schools are excellent. The Albany Collegiate Institute is 
here situated. It is most favorably situated, on the Willamette river, just 
below the junction of the Calapooia. It has the great advantage of both river 
and railroad transportation. The townsite is a level prairie, which extends 
from the river to the foot-hills. 

LANE COUNTY. 

South of Linn, and from the ocean to the Cascade range across this 
county it is 120 miles. The county embraces 120 townships, two-thirds of 
which land is susceptible of the highest cultivation. It is a rich country, 
and one of the best in the State. 

The central portion of the county occupies the upper end of the Wil- 
lamette valley and the mountains that bound it on the south, while the 
remainder extends to the summit of the Cascades on the east, and crosses 
the Coast range to the Pacific on the west. The valley portion is composed 
mainly of level or slightly rolling, fertile prairie, bordered next to the 



56 OREGON AS IT IS. 

mountains with low foothills, covered with grass and scattering oak, pine, 
maple, alder and other varieties of timber. 

The mountain ranges on the south, west and east are heavily timbered 
with forests of fir, pine, cedar, hemlock, spruce and other varieties of giant 
growth. 

To the eastward and along the three rivers that unite near the center of 
the county, and form the Willamette, there are large tracts of rich land 
still unclaimed. This, like all the unclaimed land in Lane county, is tim- 
bered more or less thickly with native woods. In many places, however, 
forest fires have destroyed the large timber and nothing would interfere 
with immediate farming, except a few years growth of brush. It is esti- 
mated that by reason of the elevated and broken surface of the land not 
more than two-thirds of the entire county will ever be brought under culti- 
vation, but will remain fit for nothing but pasture and timber. A very 
little more than one-third is now occupied, leaving a little less than one- 
third of the entire county tillable land subject to settlement. It must be 
remembered however, that the tillable land often lies adjacent to or inter- 
spersed with rocky or broken land, so that it is quite difficult to secure 160 
acres according to the legal sub-divisions without having to take some worth- 
less land also. But there are thousands of claims of 160 acres with 40, 80 
or even 120 acres of good rich land, with plenty of the finest timber and 
water in the world. 

That part of the county lying west of the Coast Range is especially invi- 
ting to the homestead and preemption settler. The Siuslaw bay, an arm 
of the Pacific Ocean extending inland 25 miles, affords a delightful and 
convenient highway to the markets of the world. The Siuslaw river which 
flows into this bay drains a country of 29 townships, not more than one- 
twentieth of which is occupied. The soil is rich, of a sandy nature, remark- 
ably well adapted to fruit, hay, grazing, and all kinds of vegetables. This 
is unquestionably the best dairying section of the county. The frequent 
mists, from the ocean keeps the growing vegetation green, which in other 
parts of the county, the month of August finds nearly all pastures too dry 
to produce much food. 

The opportunities for lumbering on this bay and river could scarcely be 
exaggerated. The supply of yellow fir within easy access for shipping is 
apparently inexhaustable. A steam saw mill has just began operations 
and there are splendid openings for other mills. 

There are at present three fisheries and a few settlers along the bay. 
Five hundred families could find lands for settlement along the waters of 
this river, and each 40 to 100 acres of good rich cultivating land. Steamers 
of 700 tons burden have entered this bay at common tide without difficulty, 
and as soon as business of the port will justify, ocean steamers will make 



OREGON AS IT IS. 57 

frequent and regular trips to San Francisco. Through this bay is the 
natural route for the commerce of Lane county, and on the development 
following a more dense population, railroads will be built from this point 
to the interior, and the imports of a great country will pass this way, which 
is 200 miles nearer than any other route. 

The population of the county is 12,700, including only two negroes and 
not more than 20 Chinamen. The county government is under economi- 
cal management ; county warrants being worth their face in gold at the 
county treasury. Taxes, including both State and County are 16 mills. 
The county is out of debt, and has a large fund in the treasury. There 
are 92 school districts within the county with free schools from six to 
ten months. 

The price of land in Lane county ranges from $4 to $10 per acre for 
stock lands, and $15 to $30 for grain lands — and in some cases whose im- 
provement are above the average a little higher figure is asked. 

The county is crossed near the center from north to south by the O. & 
C. R. R., standard gauge. The Oregon Railway, limited, (narrow gauge), 
is completed to Coburg, a station in the northern part of the county. 

The mountains and foothills, and also belts along the streams, are covered 
with extensive growths of timber, suitable for manufacturing and building, 
such as fir, pine, cedar, hemlock, spruce, maple, ash, yew, alder, balm, 
white and black oak. 

Climate is mild and pleasant. The location of Lane county gives it a 
very desirable medium between the hot, dry climate of California and the 
excessive rains of Northern Oregon and Washington Territory. The aver- 
age temperature is for spring 52 degrees, for summer 67 degrees, for au- 
tumn 63 degrees, and for winter 38 degrees, showing a mean deviation of 
only 29 degrees during the entire year. The thermometer was never 
known to indicate more than six degrees below zero, nor higher than 98 
degrees above in the shade. The average yearly rainfall is 49 to 65 inches. 

It is a remarkable feature of Lane county that persons from the middle 
States and sections where hard water is used, afflicted with disease of the 
kidneys, find almost immediate relief in the soft water of this section. Many 
names could be given of persons who were invalids under medical treat- 
ment in the East, now enjoy robust health in Lane county. The whole 
country is abundantly watered by springs of fine soft water without alkali. 

Lane county holds the medal for the best wheat in the world. Wheat 
is the chief staple product, which crop, when it is properly cultivated, yields 
from 20 to 45 bushels to the acre. Oats, barley, rye and all kinds of gar- 
den vegetables grow to perfection. Fruits, such as apples, pears, plums, 
prunes, cherries, blackberries, currants and all kinds of small fruits, are 
positively unexcelled for size, flavor and certainty of crop by any country 
on the globe. 



58 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Eugene City with a population of 2,000 is the principal town. It is lo- 
cated on the Oregon & California Railroad, in the central part of the 
county, and at the head of navigation on the Willamette river. It is finely 
situated, elegantly laid out, and is the most beautiful town in the State. 
Its reputation for morality and superior school facilities have attracted a 
class of wealthy and intelligent citizens. It is the seat of the Oregon State 
University, and the educational center of the Pacific Northwest. The 
State University is in a flourishing condition, and is an institution of which 
any young State ought to be proud. It is out of debt, has been liberally 
provided with State funds, and by private endowment, has numerous corps 
of eminent professors, and is well supplied with apparatus and geological 
specimens. 

Eugene City is located in a healthy place, in the midst of an extensive 
and very rich agricultural district. The fact there are no towns nearer than 
Roseburg on the south (a distance of 74 miles), and Corvallis on the north 
(a distance of 42 miles), gives a very large country tributuary to it for trade. 
The water power at this place, almost as nature made it, is sufficient for 
the mills now in operation. 

BENTON COUNTY. 

Benton county extends from the Willamette river on the east to the 
Pacific Ocean, a distance of about sixty miles, and is about thirty miles 
wide, north and south. The eastern half is embraced in the Willam- 
ette valley and adjacent foothills, and is composed of some of the finest 
grain and fruit lands in the State. The soil varies somewhat, it is rich al- 
luvial deposit in the bottoms along the river, of great fertility and inexhaust- 
ible productiveness, while the prairies are composed of a variety from black 
doby to red clay, white soil and various qualities of loam. It is all taken 
and occupied in large farms of from two to six hundred acres, although not 
half of it has ever been cultivated, and only partially utilized for stock 
purposes. 

When cultivated properly, these lands yield from 25 to 40 bushels per 
acre and in exceptional cases, much more. The average price per acre is 
from $15 to $40, owing to locality and character of improvements. 

The western half of the county is rough and broken and but sparsely set- 
tled as yet, but well adapted to stock raising generally, with here and there 
small valleys suitable for homesteads and small farms. These lands range 
from government price to $4 or $8 per acre. 

All fruits grow well in this county except peaches and grapes, and all 
grains except corn. The exceptions are raised to some extent, but do not 
flourish. 

Corvallis is the county seat; a flourishing town of about 1,500, on the 
Willamette river. The State Agricultural College, with a full complement 
of efficient teachers, is situated at this place, and in addition there are two 
district schools that are well sustained. The town is well supplied with 



OREGON AS IT IS. 59 

churches, and the morals of the community are good. 

Corvallis is connected with Portland by the west side railroad, and also 
by water transportation about nine months in the year. A railroad is also 
built from Yaquina bay on the coast to this point, and is to be extended 
eastward across the State to connect with through eastern lines. The pres- 
ent population of the county is only about 9,000, and in view of its broad 
expanse and undeveloped resources, coupled with its future transportation 
prospects, rich soil and mild and healthy climate, it offers opportunities to 
immigrants equal to any point in the State. 

POLK COUNTY. 

This county lies north of Yamhill county, and, like it, is located between 
the Willamette river and the Coast range. It is admirably watered and 
timbered. Its area of some 800 square miles is a belt of timber covered 
mountains on its extreme western end. The valley portion is occupied by 
well improved farms, and is one of the best developed portions of the 
State. 

Improved land is for sale at from $30 to $50, and unimproved from 
$2.50 to $10. The western section is hilly and covered with a fine growth 
of hardwood and fir, the latter being especially dense and valuable in the 
mountain region. This land is especially adapted to pasturage for cattle 
and sheep. Much of it is still open for settlement under Government 
land laws, while there is also a considerable amount belonging to the rail- 
road which may be purchased at a reasonable rate. Partially improved 
land can always be bought at low figures. 

As to blood, one of the finest bands of sheep in the State being on the 
hill range south and west of Dallas. The eastern or hilly section of Polk 
is covered with fine hardwood and fir trees, which, with the growing de- 
mand for lumber, must soon become valuable. The hilly land also affords 
fine range, is specially adapted for sheep pasturage. There is not a dis- 
tinctive fruit farm in Polk county, or, in fact, but one in all the west side 
counties. Each farmer has from one to five acres of orchard, which receives 
but little care. Apples, pears, and small fruits grow well, however, and 
now that railroads have made it possible to market fruit in the fresh state, 
more attention will be paid to fruit culture. 

The products of the county are wheat, potatoes, oats, hops, cattle, hogs, 
wool and flour. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, and all sorts of berries, 
yield bounteously. 

The county seat is Dallas, a town of 1,000 people. It contains a sash and 
door factory, tannery, machine shops and academy, and is the business 
centre of a large and prosperous farming region. 

Good churches and schools maintain a high educational and moral 
standard. 



60 OREGON AS IT IS. 

Independence is on the Willamette river, and is a rival of Dallas for the 
honors and advantages of the county seat. Its location on the line of the 
Oregon and California Railroad and on the river gives it special advantages 
as a shipping point, and attracts to it a great share of the grain of the 
country. 

COLUMBIA COUNTY. 

This county hugs the Columbia river, which is its western boundary. It 
is a mountainous region in its eastern half. But there is a very large domain 
along the river, embracing some of the richest lands in the State. 

The superficial area of the county is. 680 square miles. Its chief resour- 
ces are coal, iron and timber, though there is much good land but partially 
tilled. A range of high hills, covered with timber, runs nearly parallel 
with the river. On one side are the Columbia bottoms, and on the other 
the fertile Nehalem valley. The bottom lands along the river are subject 
to overflow in June, and when the water recedes, a luxurious growth of 
grass springs up, making splendid pasturage and hay. The dairy business 
is quite extensively carried on in these favored localities. Comparatively 
little farming is done along the river, the lumbering business absorbing the 
attention of the people. Every stream of any size has been cleared of ob- 
structions, so that logs can be run down them in high water season. 

It costs more to get a farm under way there than in a prairie district ; 
but there are many who deem the special expense more than compensated 
by the advantages of location in a timbered region and near water transpor- 
tation to market. 

A great deal of excellent land is for sale here, at from $3.50 to $10 and 
$20 an acre. The logging industry, while it cuts down the timber, helps 
clear the land, leaving it available for the all-the-y ear-round pasture even 
before the stumps and small growths are removed. Logging progresses at 
all seasons and affords steady employment to all who choose to work at it 
for wages. Many settlers put in such time as they can there in opening 
their farms, and earn their maintenance in the logging camp. 

St. Helens and Columbia City, on the river, are the principal towns in 
the county. 

THE COAST REGION. 

Belonging to the Coast region in the northwestern portion of the State, 
are the counties of Clatsop and Tillamook; most of this region is timbered. 
The vine maple bottoms, as the low lands along the streams are generally 
called, are most desirable, and will prove themselves the poor men's homes of 
the future. To render them such, work is necessary, either by the settler him- 
self, as is generally thexase, or by others whom he pays for their labor. Much 
of these lands have enough cottonwood to pay for their clearing, since bar- 
rel staves of that wood are in demand. The fir will make fence rails and 



OREGON AS IT IS. 61 

shakes for houses and barns, the larger vine maples make durable posts, 
and the elders and quaking aspens can be slashed for burning. Next 
comes the fire, leaving the ashes to fertilize the soil, and up comes the 
shamrock, which is a natural growth and a great element of wealth. This 
tiny white clover is everywhere along the bottoms, and is the best butter 
food known. The streams are numerous, while springs of pure water 
burst from the ground in every gulch and at frequent intervals along the 
hillsides. Snow is unknown except on the hills, and grass and clover are 
perpetually fresh and green. 

CLATSOP COUNTY. 

In the northwestern part of the State lies Clatsop county. It is twenty 
miles long and has an average width of thirty miles. Its soil is a light loam 
and sand, easily cultivated and highly productive. Its climate is the ordi 
nary climate of Western Oregon in winter, with a constant moisture in sum- 
mer, which keeps its pastures always green. Everything is well watered, 
and timber in abundance borders the eastern margin. The chief industry 
of Clatsop Plains is that of butter and cheese manufacture. In no locality 
in the world are the conditions for dairying more fortunate than here. An 
unfailing verdure, a cool and equable climate, rich native grasses, abund- 
ance of pure fresh water, nearness to market, all the conditions are here in 
perfection and all made highly valuable by constant demand and high 
prices for dairy products. 

The surface of the county is chiefly mountainous, but many streams flow 
through, along which are areas of fine agricultural land. Even back from 
the streams, almost everywhere, the soil is excellent and well adapted to 
cultivation, when the ground has been cleared of its dense growth of tim- 
ber. Clatsop Plains, a strip of land lying along the sea shore, which has 
been settled for thirty-five years, is the largest body of agricultural land in 
the county. The soil is light and sandy, and produces vegetables, grain 
and small fruits in abundance. But little wheat is raised, oats and barley 
being the principal cereals. Hay is the chief crop and dairying the lead- 
ing feature of the farming business. 

In no county in the State is there such variety of employment for the 
wage-worker. It is estimated that $1,500,000 is paid out annually for 
labor in fishing and logging. It is a common thing for immigrants to set- 
tle upon Government land, which may be had for the taking, and to work 
in the fisheries in summer, or the logging camps in winter, the while mak- 
ing such improvements on their settlements as they can. Being near the 
coast, snows are infrequent, and never lie longer than a few hours. 

Astoria is at the mouth of the Columbia, and the central figure in the 
salmon fishing feature of the Northwest. It has a most healthful climate, 
and is sometimes called (and appropriately enough) the Venice of America. 
It is a favorite summer resort of the people of Western Oregon. It is al- 
ways in possession of a delightful sea-breeze, and the hills in the vicinity 
are covered from base to dome with architectural groupings of earlier days 



62 OREGON AS IT IS. 

and more modern progress. The more even portion of the city is adorned 
with comfortable and well constructed homes, that bespeak comfort, cul- 
ture and refined taste of their owners and occupants. The future holds 
out bright promises for our city by the sea. Situated as it is, at the mouth 
of the Columbia, with a good harbor and a custom house, it is the natural 
gateway of Oregon for all ocean commerce. 

TILLAMOOK COUNTY. 

This is one of the isolated counties of the State. It lies for seventy 
miles along the coast, reaching inland as far as the summit of the Coast 
range of mountains, and having Clatsop adjoining it on the north and 
Benton on the south. Along all the streams are many thousand acres of 
valley and bottom lands, the greater portion of which are as yet unsettled, 
and in the uplands lying along the coast, between the streams, are vast 
tracts of splendid grazing land, fitted for agriculture when cleared, that 
remain still in their primitive state. 

The largest and oldest settled section of agricultural land is Tillamook 
valley, surrounded by mountains on the north, east and south, and shel- 
tered from the ocean winds by a range of high hills that rise between it 
and Tillamook bay, it possesses the most delightful climate of the whole coast 
of Oregon. Back of the fringe of timber, a mile or two deep around the 
bay, the valley opens in a fine variety of prairie, woodland, knoll and ravine, 
stretching away for miles, to climb at last the easy and wooded slopes of 
the Coast Range. Three or four rivers come down from the mountains 
through narrowing arms of the valley, gathering the bright, pure waters of 
hundreds of mountain rivulets and brooks. The best of the valley land 
(meaning that which is prairie and most easily cleared) is, of course, occu- 
pied by settlers already there. But there is room for thousands of home- 
steads on Government land which can be put in cultivation at an expense 
of a few dollars per acre. 

The country is finely adapted to general farming, stock raising and dairy- 
ing, and the land is literally "dirt cheap." Two bays easily approached 
from the ocean afford ample port facilities, and numerous small rivers and 
inlets make transportation cheap and easy. We do not believe that any 
section of Oregon offers better advantages to the settler of small means 
than Tillamook county. The country is new, and little has been done in 
the way of school house and church building, but the soil is rich and cheap 
and the market is not very difficult. 

The prairie lands or high plains, stretching up and down the coast for 
nearly sixty miles and back to the mountains for twelve miles, are the 
easiest reached, and but for the ferns and breaks that grow in profusion, 
absorbing the moisture and killing off other vegetation, would make the 
finest farms. As it is, the vine maple bottoms are the most desirable. 

The barley of this region is superior to that of the Willamette valley, and 
oats, potatoes, fruits and all kinds of vegetables are prolific. 



SUPPLEMENTARY 



The Board of Immigration was created by House Bill No, 43, at the 13th 
regular session of the Oregon Legislature, for the purpose of disseminating 
information concerning the resources of the State and the advantages its 
offers as an immigration field. It is composed of five Commissioners, 
whose names appear on the title page of this book, and who were appointed 
by the Governor. It conducts its business in a headquarters at Portland, 
trom which pamphlets, maps and other printed matter is mailed to all in- 
quiers, and where new comers are cordially welcome and aided in every 
possible way. 

The sum appropriated for its use is $5,000 each, for the years 1885 and 
1886. 

A FINAL WORD TO THE IMMIGRANT. 

In summing up and making an application of what has been written in 
the foregoing pages, it is no exaggeration of language to say that, all things 
considered, the best section of the common country, in which to put sur- 
plus money, intelligent labor accompanied by some means, for the young 
or the middle aged farmer who has no elbow room in the Eastern States ; 
for the application of practical workmanship and skill in mechanics ; for 
those who are capable of occupying top places in the professions — is Ore- 
gon. More or less in detail, the reader has had the reasons for this belief 
set forth in the foregoing pages. 

Geographically, Oregon is America's Sunset Land. It is the last among 
the States to be touched by those physical achievements, which have 
made man so irresistible and invincible in his wrestings and heroisms with 
the rugged and defiant in nature, as he has obliterated the " out west" of 
the pioneer, carried progress with the level luxury of the ringing rails, to 
where it has solved the last mystery of solitude and strangeness on this 
continent, robbed distance of its weariness and made of this region, a lost 
Atlantis. Oregon is a very empire, the pride of every honest citizen, and 
contains within her boundary lines all the essential elements for a happy 



64 OREGON AS IT IS 

prosperous existence ; elements which need only the watchful and liberal 
care of State and people to make them the realization of the hope of the 
most sanguine. 

In the past we have grown slowly, perhaps, in population ; but our peo- 
ple have been exceptional in the degree of prosperity. Just now we are 
increasing at a ratio that will in a few years give Oregon a population 
told in seven figures rather than in six, as now. The State is capable of 
sustaining a people equal to that of any other country, and it will feed and 
clothe every inhabitant luxuriously. In this State, the tables of the indus- 
trious are laden with plenty ; indeed, more than that, they groan with the 
best in the land. 

• 

Besides that, Oregon is now busily engaged working out for herself the 

solution of a multitude of questions, that in their several relations effect the 
farmer who raises the products of the soil, and the man who finds a market 
for these products ; questions of keeping the State great in agriculture, and 
providing a counter-poising enterprise in the mechanic arts, that the bal- 
ance of trade — (our surplus capital sent out of the State for what we ought 
to produce at home), is no longer against us. Careful inquiry and intelli- 
gent action in this direction, is bringing a gratifying reward. 

Our soil is fitted for the production of all the grain and grasses known 
to the husbandman of America. We have coal and other fuel with which 
to warm and make comfortable a population five times as great as the 
present. We have the best breeds of cattle and hogs and sheep and horses. 
We have a complete educational system ; a system embracing institutions 
of all grades, and the best, from college to district school. This statement 
alone is the best warrant that Oregon is a goqd country to live in. In all 
the towns of the State, the church is supplemented by the school house, 
lyceum, library and literary club, for the cultivation of that which is best 
in human character. These moral advantages are hardly any behind the 
material progress which can be seen on every hand. Oregon has great 
reason to he thankful for her heritage — and her people thankful that their 
lines have fallen in pleasant places ; places where in soil and climate and 
products, in all the conditions of the highest in human life, they find that 
which will not fail in realizing the brighest hopes. 



NEWSPAPER DIRECTORY. 



A complete list of all the newspapers and periodicals published in Oregon. 

Polk County. 



Multnomah County. 

Portland— 

Oregonian, Daily and WeeKly. 
News, 

Standard, ' 

Telegram, " 
Catholic Sentinel, Thursday. 
Columbia Churchman, AJonthly. 
Commercial Reporter and ) 

Journal of Commerce. J Friday. 
New Northwest, Thursday. 
Oregon Sittings, Weekly. 
North Pacific Rural Spirit, Friday. 
Northwestern Farmer | 

and Dairyman, J Weekly. 
Oregon Deutsche Zeitung, Saturday. 
Pacific Christian Advocate, Thursday. 
Practical Educator, Monthly. 
Staats Zeitung of Oregon, I 

and Washington, J Friday. 
Mercury, Sunday. 
Welcome " 
West Shore, Monthly. 
East Portland — 

Vindicator, Saturday. 

JL,inn County. 

Albany — 

State Rights Democrat, Friday. 
Herald-Disseminator. 

Jackson County. 

Ashland — 

Tidings, Weekly. 

Jacksonville- 
Democratic Times, Friday. 

Medford Monitor. 

Clatsop County. 

Astoria— 

• Astorian, Daily and Weekly. 
Gateway Herald, Daily and Weekly. 
Baker Count*. 
Baker— 

Peveille, Thursday. 
Bedrock Democrat, Wednesday. 
Tribune, Tuesday and Friday. 
Grant County. 

Canyon City- 
News, Thursday. 

I in at ilia County. 

Umatilla — 

Examiner, Friday. 
Pendleton— 

East Oregonian, Tuesday and Friday. 

Tribune, Friday. 
Weston — 

Leader, Saturday. 

Morrow County. 

Heppner — 

Gazette, Thursday. 
Times, Friday. 

Benton County. 

Corvallis— 

Benton Leader, Friday. 
Gazette, " 

Philomath- 
Oregon Oracle. 

Yaquina — 

Yaquina Mail 

Polk County. 

Dallas— 

Itemizer, Saturday. 

Independence — 

West Side, Friday. 



Monmouth — 

Christian Herald, Friday. 

Yamhill County. 

La Fayette — 

Register, Friday. 
McMinnville— 

Baptist Beacon, Monthly. 

Reporter, Thursday. 

Curry County, 
Denmark — 

Recorder, Tuesday. 
Ellensburg — 

Curry County Post, Friday, 
lane County. 
Eugene— 

Guard, Saturday. 

Oregon State Journal, Saturday. 
Washington County, 
Hillsboro— 

Independent, Friday. 

Union County. 

La Grande- 
Gazette. 

Union- 
Mountain Sentinel, Saturday. 

Lake County. 

Lake View- 
Lake County Examiner, Saturday. 

Klamath County. 

Linkville— 

Star, Saturday. 

loos County. 

Marshfield— 

Coquille City Herald. 

Coast Mail, Thursday. 
Coos Bay News, Wednesday. 

Clackamas County, 

Oregon City- 
Courier, Friday. 
Enterprise, Thursday. 

(rook County. 

Prineville— 

News, Saturday. 

Douglas County, 

Roseburg — 

Plaindealer, Saturday. 
Roseburg Review, Weekly. 

Columbia County. 

St. Helens- 
Columbian, Friday. 
Oregon Mist, " 

Marion County. 

Salem — 

Oregon Statesman, Daily and Weekly. 

Oregon Vidette, Saturday. 

Talk, Daily and Weekly. 

Willamette Farmer, Friday. 
Silverton— 

Appeal, Saturday. 

Wasco County. 

The Dalles- 
Sun, Daily and Weekly. 
Times-Mountaineer, Saturday. 

Josephine County. 

Grant's Pass- 
Courier, Weekly. 
Argus, " 

Gilliam County. 

Alkali- 
Riverside Enterprise. 






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